1. I would take my own down jacket instead of renting one. The rented one was warm but huge and very bulky - it's possible I just got the wrong size.
2. I would take a lot more snacks. I packed a few Lara bars and sports gels but ran out. Sometimes there were long gaps between meals or I was hungry on the trail. The guides and porters also very much appreciate being offered some additional nibblies.
3. I would schedule a rest day after returning from the trek. It was good to have an extra day before heading out - to rest but also to have time to retrieve lost luggage (one in seven bags ends up coming in 24 hours later!). We skipped one night's sleep climbing Kili and never made it up. I was very tired on the safari.
4. I would take 2 t-shirts instead of just one. This, I think, was just a packing error on my part - I ran out of space and took some things out packing my trek bag 3-4 times. It is quite hot on days 1, 2 and 7.
5. I would take some hand-warmers/toe-warmers. My rented sleeping bag was good but 3-4 nights, my feet were cold. I tend to feel the cold in my fingers and toes as a rule. They were selling them at the gate and I regretted not buying them. They are hard to find in Toronto in summer!
6. Jury's still out on the need for gaiters. Our guide wore them every day. I had Jim's with me but thought I would only need them for the Saddle portion. By the end of Day 1, I was already filthy so there wasn't any point. If you do take them, wear them right from the beginning.
7. I also have mixed feelings about the duffle bag I chose. I am sure it was easier and more comfortable for the porters to carry but it was a bit of a nuisance every night. I had to dump most of the contents out and then repack everything. Something with pockets would have been more helpful.
8. I would have taken more US dollars in small bills. I think I took $50 in $5 and $1s. (I did take quite a few $50s and $100s but most of them went to the safari) I'll have to check how much we tipped but I did not have enough and had to put TZ schillings in - not sure if that was a problem or not.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
thoughts
Climbing Kilimanjaro was all about reaching the summit. I have to say the scenery was not that interesting. There were some great expansive views but I found it terribly bland compared to the Inca Trail. I knew this going in, having watched the IMAX film Kilimanjaro 3 times (lol). And everything we did was to increase our chances of reaching the summit - the longer route, the acclimitization hike, the pole pole pace.
It felt good to feel a part of a group struggling toward the same end. We each had to get our own selves up there but we cared about how the others were coping. It reminded me of the Bike Rally in some respects.
I made good choices with the route, the length of time on the mountain and with the company - Team Kilimanjaro. I highly recommend people take 7 days rather than 5. Also it was very nice to go up one side and come down the other. It's more expensive to take a longer route but I think it helped my chances of reaching the summit. The time of year was also good.
My biggest problem ended up being the food. It seemed to be fine for everyone else but I have a sensitive tummy unaccustomed to a lot of fried food. For me, it was a struggle to get enough protein.
I am glad I did it. It was a lot harder than I thought it would be (doesn't everyone say this?) but that makes it more satisfying.
It felt good to feel a part of a group struggling toward the same end. We each had to get our own selves up there but we cared about how the others were coping. It reminded me of the Bike Rally in some respects.
I made good choices with the route, the length of time on the mountain and with the company - Team Kilimanjaro. I highly recommend people take 7 days rather than 5. Also it was very nice to go up one side and come down the other. It's more expensive to take a longer route but I think it helped my chances of reaching the summit. The time of year was also good.
My biggest problem ended up being the food. It seemed to be fine for everyone else but I have a sensitive tummy unaccustomed to a lot of fried food. For me, it was a struggle to get enough protein.
I am glad I did it. It was a lot harder than I thought it would be (doesn't everyone say this?) but that makes it more satisfying.
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Day 7
(Horombo Huts - 3705m; Marangu Gate - 1905m)
Our last day on the mountain. I felt ready to finish up - I have never been so dirty in my life. We packed up quickly and Lisa and I ended up walking together with Arson, who I think was very interested in Lisa, lol.
It took us about 4.5 hours to reach the gate and my feet had had it. This was another type of hell that no one had really mentioned. I wasn't sure I had any toenails left from the descent. People were passing us all the time, eager to get to the bottom and have a beer.
We met a young man who had a teddy bear sticking out of his knapsack. Lisa asked him what that was about and he told us he had spent time in hospital as a child and someone had given him that bear to comfort him - now he takes the bear with him on all his trips. We also met a 64 year old man who had made the summit - he said that 3 of his group had turned back.
We passed through another camp on the Marangu Route. It felt weird to be covering several days' hiking (going up) in one (going down). The rain forest was nice but I think I was too tired to really appreciate it.
Eventually we caught up to Jim and Jane and walked into the Park Office area together. We knew we were close when we started running into guys selling t-shirts and students heading up for a day-hike. There was a gate to pass through which signified the official end. We were the last to arrive as Marilyn and Michael had been taken down an alternate route and the usual rabbits had been well ahead of us. Jonas had us all sign the book at the park office - that took quite a while. I had a coke; Lisa finally got her beer. We bought Arson one too. The little shop was quite good - t-shirts, coffee, beer, maps, etc. At that point, I had no idea if the prices were inflated and didn't really care.
All the porters and guides were waiting for us for their tips. One by one they came up as Jonas called out their names, received their tip in one of Lisa's mini plastic bags and shook all of our hands. I gave Gibson, Philipo, Antony, Ali and Jonas a little extra.
Then we were off for lunch at a restaurant in Moshi where Jonas presented us with our certificates. It was 4:30 pm by then and I was done. We still had another 2 hours to drive back to the hotel. I was anxious to check my email to see how Cindy's surgery had gone.
Lisa and Marilyn had champagne and graciously asked Camille, Joost and me to join them for a celebratory drink. A quick rather ineffectual shower, my first smoke in 6 days, an agonizingly slow internet sign-in and then I joined them. I had another burger too as I was starving!
Off to bed by 11 as I was leaving for safari the next morning.
Our last day on the mountain. I felt ready to finish up - I have never been so dirty in my life. We packed up quickly and Lisa and I ended up walking together with Arson, who I think was very interested in Lisa, lol.It took us about 4.5 hours to reach the gate and my feet had had it. This was another type of hell that no one had really mentioned. I wasn't sure I had any toenails left from the descent. People were passing us all the time, eager to get to the bottom and have a beer.
We met a young man who had a teddy bear sticking out of his knapsack. Lisa asked him what that was about and he told us he had spent time in hospital as a child and someone had given him that bear to comfort him - now he takes the bear with him on all his trips. We also met a 64 year old man who had made the summit - he said that 3 of his group had turned back.
We passed through another camp on the Marangu Route. It felt weird to be covering several days' hiking (going up) in one (going down). The rain forest was nice but I think I was too tired to really appreciate it.
Eventually we caught up to Jim and Jane and walked into the Park Office area together. We knew we were close when we started running into guys selling t-shirts and students heading up for a day-hike. There was a gate to pass through which signified the official end. We were the last to arrive as Marilyn and Michael had been taken down an alternate route and the usual rabbits had been well ahead of us. Jonas had us all sign the book at the park office - that took quite a while. I had a coke; Lisa finally got her beer. We bought Arson one too. The little shop was quite good - t-shirts, coffee, beer, maps, etc. At that point, I had no idea if the prices were inflated and didn't really care.
All the porters and guides were waiting for us for their tips. One by one they came up as Jonas called out their names, received their tip in one of Lisa's mini plastic bags and shook all of our hands. I gave Gibson, Philipo, Antony, Ali and Jonas a little extra.Then we were off for lunch at a restaurant in Moshi where Jonas presented us with our certificates. It was 4:30 pm by then and I was done. We still had another 2 hours to drive back to the hotel. I was anxious to check my email to see how Cindy's surgery had gone.
Lisa and Marilyn had champagne and graciously asked Camille, Joost and me to join them for a celebratory drink. A quick rather ineffectual shower, my first smoke in 6 days, an agonizingly slow internet sign-in and then I joined them. I had another burger too as I was starving!
Off to bed by 11 as I was leaving for safari the next morning.
Night 5/Day 6
(School Huts - 4700m; Uhuru Peak - 5896m; Kibo Huts - 4700m; Horombo Huts - 3705m)
We were woken at 10:30pm and gathered in the dining tent for coffee, tea and bread and jam. Not many of us ate but I did, even though I was feeling a little nauseous. I figured I would need every scrap of food I could swallow. It was tense and quiet in the tent - I am sure we were all thinking about what lay ahead. Jane was feeling better, thankfully, but Camille was not, still experiencing stomach cramps.
I decided to take my poles so I could lean on them when I needed to rest. I knew if I sat down, that would be it. They proved their worth during the very last stretch.
We snapped on our headlights and then we set off in our usual single file. I was surprised so many people accompanied us. Jonas led the way but coming up beside us were the 3 asst guides and then at least 4 other people.
It was immediately tough going. I had on the largest down jacket imaginable and got very hot fast and my knapsack, containing 3 liters of water and my windproof jacket, felt much heavier than usual. Those two things didn't help.
Jonas and the "crew" sang as they accompanied us through the first hour of switchbacks - it was a helpful distraction as I plodded along. I don't think it wasn't especially steep per se because of the back and forth but I was starting to have trouble with breathing and everything felt very heavy. The terrain was a mixture of scree and rock. I had scheduled my trek around a full moon and think it did make it lighter - at one point my headlight went out and I could still see okay.
After about 2 hours I felt light-headed and dizzy and wanted to quit. Everything in me was screaming "stop!" "sit down". I found it very discouraging to look up and see how far above the other trekkers were - not that they were ahead but that I still had so far to go. I felt like we were climbing straight up the side of a skyscraper. Looking at my watch was also a mistake as I knew it would take us all night to reach the summit. It felt impossible. I didn't give a damm about getting my certificate or making it to the top anymore. I stopped to remove my down jacket and Antony immediately came over to chide me for not asking for help. He took my knapsack. I didn't want to give it up as he was already carrying one but was too weak to argue. That helped quite a bit.
Still, I have to say this was one of the most horrible nights of my life. It felt like I was climbing sand stairs for 6 hours. I was a bit delirious the whole way, in my own little world. There were many people attempting the summit that night (at least 2 routes join up near this point for the final ascent). I would look down the mountain and see streams of headlights coming up behind us. Further up, groups were breaking into smaller clusters. We started passing people who were stopped with their "handlers" - many were puking; everyone was pale as ghosts. I saw one woman sobbing with her arms around a porter who didn't seem sure what to do with this crazy tourist. Another woman was being rushed straight down the scree by 2 "handlers". Jonas and the others pushed us to keep moving - few breaks. Lisa and I protested - we needed to pee. There was no cover for peeing so we made do.
Our group broke up and I lost track of Lisa and Marilyn. Originally I had envisioned reaching the sign with them but my survival instincts kicked in. When the headlamps above me finally seemed to reach the crest and diappear, I went for broke. I just wanted the torture to end. Man, I cursed that mountain. It knocked the stuffing right out of me.
7 hours, I think, it took me to reach Gillman's Point. I came over the crest in the second group. I was exhausted, dehydrated and hungry but managed to snap this photo before retrieving my knapsack from Antony.
Finally, I thought, I could rest and wait for Lisa and Marilyn. Not so. I managed to get my down jacket back on - it was freezing - but no time for a snack before Antony urged me, Jane and Jim, to move a little further along to get out of the wind. Crafty fellow. Before I knew it, we were plodding on to the summit and to the famous sign.
As Henry Stedman says somewhere that I can't find right now... "If you thought [that] took the biscuit, the [next part] will take the entire tin." I found that to be quite accurate. I was panting the whole hour. I had to stop and lean on my poles every minute or so to try to slow down my breathing. Philipo and Gibson stayed with me. They didn't say anything to me, which was probably a good thing. I would likely have snapped their heads right off. If I hadn't had Cindy's rocks in my pocket, I would have given up. I sure didn't care about that damm sign at that point.
Reaching the sign at Uhuru Peak was excruciating. Antony kept telling the three of us that it was just around the corner. There were a helluva lot of corners! We passed many trekkers who were coming down and they sometimes offered encouragement.
Finally I reached the sign. There was a crowd of people around it and a fellow with a safety vest in the middle trying to organize a proper line-up. I took the opportunity to bury Cindy's rocks in a nice spot overlooking the glaciers.
Strangely enough, even though we were at 5895m, I felt fine again after I reached the site. My breathing slowed down. I could feel my heart rate go down too. I was just so relieved it was over. I jostled for photo position and we got this good shot of Gibson, me, Antony and Philipo.
I was at the summit about 15 minutes and then it was time to descend. Now I felt up to taking lots of photos and to admiring the incredible scenery. The glaciers were remarkable - many different hues of white and blue - but also the views down into the volcano crater were also fabulous.
I passed a lot of very pale trekkers on the way down to Gillman's Point. Some were being held up by their "handlers" and had a dazed look about them. I imagine I had looked exactly like that myself. I was happy to see Lisa, Marilyn and then Michael - we all made it to the top!
Back at Gillman's Point, we stopped for a few minutes and then it was time to descend to Kibo Huts. After a few bits of larger rock, it became loose scree. I was completely exhausted so decided to ski straight down as much as possible. This part was fun and saved me some time. But after a while my legs turned to concrete and I couldn't run anymore. I also still had 6 layers on and ski pants and was sweating like crazy. Kibo Huts was visible the whole way but there were times I wondered if I would ever get there. Gibson shadowed me the whole way. I think it was about 3 hours later that I reached Kibo Huts.
Kibo Huts is the last campsite for people on the Marangu Route before they make their summit attempt. We saw several groups starting up as we came down. (Our route bypassed this beginning bit and after seeing it in daylight I was very happy about that - all loose scree)
The crew had set up the dining tent for an early lunch. I was never so happy to just sit down and take off my hiking boots and socks. We all wanted to wait for Michael to come down before eating but it looked like he would be a while so we dug in. Then we greeted him as he came in.
The fun though apparently wasn't over as we were informed we still had another 3 hour hike to go to the next campsite. Lots of groaning, lol. I managed to find the porter who had my yellow bag and changed clothes as it was very hot.
I walked by myself for that portion, alone except for Ali keeping a watchful eye on me from a distance, lol. The route was a clear path, a highway almost, with a steady stream of porters going the other way. It seemed to stretch forever and was incredibly barren. I stopped to take pictures of flowers and then an "ambulance" went running by. I say "running by" as it was indeed the stretcher with the bicycle wheel held up by 4 porters I had read about. I watched it tip over further down as it hit a rock. Later I heard they had airlifted the tourist out - there is a helicopter pad near the next campsite.
The landscape slowly changed as I descended and I was very happy to see greenery after days of rock and dust. These trees are only found in Kilimanjaro National Park.
Eventually I reached the last (for us) campsite. It was a busy place, full of anxious fresh-faced and clean trekkers going the other way. I was surprised how cold it got at night there considering the lower altitude, but maybe it was because I was so tired. I slept very well!
We were woken at 10:30pm and gathered in the dining tent for coffee, tea and bread and jam. Not many of us ate but I did, even though I was feeling a little nauseous. I figured I would need every scrap of food I could swallow. It was tense and quiet in the tent - I am sure we were all thinking about what lay ahead. Jane was feeling better, thankfully, but Camille was not, still experiencing stomach cramps.
I decided to take my poles so I could lean on them when I needed to rest. I knew if I sat down, that would be it. They proved their worth during the very last stretch.
We snapped on our headlights and then we set off in our usual single file. I was surprised so many people accompanied us. Jonas led the way but coming up beside us were the 3 asst guides and then at least 4 other people.
It was immediately tough going. I had on the largest down jacket imaginable and got very hot fast and my knapsack, containing 3 liters of water and my windproof jacket, felt much heavier than usual. Those two things didn't help.
Jonas and the "crew" sang as they accompanied us through the first hour of switchbacks - it was a helpful distraction as I plodded along. I don't think it wasn't especially steep per se because of the back and forth but I was starting to have trouble with breathing and everything felt very heavy. The terrain was a mixture of scree and rock. I had scheduled my trek around a full moon and think it did make it lighter - at one point my headlight went out and I could still see okay.
After about 2 hours I felt light-headed and dizzy and wanted to quit. Everything in me was screaming "stop!" "sit down". I found it very discouraging to look up and see how far above the other trekkers were - not that they were ahead but that I still had so far to go. I felt like we were climbing straight up the side of a skyscraper. Looking at my watch was also a mistake as I knew it would take us all night to reach the summit. It felt impossible. I didn't give a damm about getting my certificate or making it to the top anymore. I stopped to remove my down jacket and Antony immediately came over to chide me for not asking for help. He took my knapsack. I didn't want to give it up as he was already carrying one but was too weak to argue. That helped quite a bit.
Still, I have to say this was one of the most horrible nights of my life. It felt like I was climbing sand stairs for 6 hours. I was a bit delirious the whole way, in my own little world. There were many people attempting the summit that night (at least 2 routes join up near this point for the final ascent). I would look down the mountain and see streams of headlights coming up behind us. Further up, groups were breaking into smaller clusters. We started passing people who were stopped with their "handlers" - many were puking; everyone was pale as ghosts. I saw one woman sobbing with her arms around a porter who didn't seem sure what to do with this crazy tourist. Another woman was being rushed straight down the scree by 2 "handlers". Jonas and the others pushed us to keep moving - few breaks. Lisa and I protested - we needed to pee. There was no cover for peeing so we made do.
Our group broke up and I lost track of Lisa and Marilyn. Originally I had envisioned reaching the sign with them but my survival instincts kicked in. When the headlamps above me finally seemed to reach the crest and diappear, I went for broke. I just wanted the torture to end. Man, I cursed that mountain. It knocked the stuffing right out of me.
7 hours, I think, it took me to reach Gillman's Point. I came over the crest in the second group. I was exhausted, dehydrated and hungry but managed to snap this photo before retrieving my knapsack from Antony. Finally, I thought, I could rest and wait for Lisa and Marilyn. Not so. I managed to get my down jacket back on - it was freezing - but no time for a snack before Antony urged me, Jane and Jim, to move a little further along to get out of the wind. Crafty fellow. Before I knew it, we were plodding on to the summit and to the famous sign.
As Henry Stedman says somewhere that I can't find right now... "If you thought [that] took the biscuit, the [next part] will take the entire tin." I found that to be quite accurate. I was panting the whole hour. I had to stop and lean on my poles every minute or so to try to slow down my breathing. Philipo and Gibson stayed with me. They didn't say anything to me, which was probably a good thing. I would likely have snapped their heads right off. If I hadn't had Cindy's rocks in my pocket, I would have given up. I sure didn't care about that damm sign at that point.
Reaching the sign at Uhuru Peak was excruciating. Antony kept telling the three of us that it was just around the corner. There were a helluva lot of corners! We passed many trekkers who were coming down and they sometimes offered encouragement.
Finally I reached the sign. There was a crowd of people around it and a fellow with a safety vest in the middle trying to organize a proper line-up. I took the opportunity to bury Cindy's rocks in a nice spot overlooking the glaciers.
Strangely enough, even though we were at 5895m, I felt fine again after I reached the site. My breathing slowed down. I could feel my heart rate go down too. I was just so relieved it was over. I jostled for photo position and we got this good shot of Gibson, me, Antony and Philipo.
I was at the summit about 15 minutes and then it was time to descend. Now I felt up to taking lots of photos and to admiring the incredible scenery. The glaciers were remarkable - many different hues of white and blue - but also the views down into the volcano crater were also fabulous.I passed a lot of very pale trekkers on the way down to Gillman's Point. Some were being held up by their "handlers" and had a dazed look about them. I imagine I had looked exactly like that myself. I was happy to see Lisa, Marilyn and then Michael - we all made it to the top!
Back at Gillman's Point, we stopped for a few minutes and then it was time to descend to Kibo Huts. After a few bits of larger rock, it became loose scree. I was completely exhausted so decided to ski straight down as much as possible. This part was fun and saved me some time. But after a while my legs turned to concrete and I couldn't run anymore. I also still had 6 layers on and ski pants and was sweating like crazy. Kibo Huts was visible the whole way but there were times I wondered if I would ever get there. Gibson shadowed me the whole way. I think it was about 3 hours later that I reached Kibo Huts. Kibo Huts is the last campsite for people on the Marangu Route before they make their summit attempt. We saw several groups starting up as we came down. (Our route bypassed this beginning bit and after seeing it in daylight I was very happy about that - all loose scree)
The crew had set up the dining tent for an early lunch. I was never so happy to just sit down and take off my hiking boots and socks. We all wanted to wait for Michael to come down before eating but it looked like he would be a while so we dug in. Then we greeted him as he came in.
The fun though apparently wasn't over as we were informed we still had another 3 hour hike to go to the next campsite. Lots of groaning, lol. I managed to find the porter who had my yellow bag and changed clothes as it was very hot.
I walked by myself for that portion, alone except for Ali keeping a watchful eye on me from a distance, lol. The route was a clear path, a highway almost, with a steady stream of porters going the other way. It seemed to stretch forever and was incredibly barren. I stopped to take pictures of flowers and then an "ambulance" went running by. I say "running by" as it was indeed the stretcher with the bicycle wheel held up by 4 porters I had read about. I watched it tip over further down as it hit a rock. Later I heard they had airlifted the tourist out - there is a helicopter pad near the next campsite.
The landscape slowly changed as I descended and I was very happy to see greenery after days of rock and dust. These trees are only found in Kilimanjaro National Park.Eventually I reached the last (for us) campsite. It was a busy place, full of anxious fresh-faced and clean trekkers going the other way. I was surprised how cold it got at night there considering the lower altitude, but maybe it was because I was so tired. I slept very well!
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
photo albums
I've been quite busy since I came back but hope to finish updating this weekend. In the meantime, I've posted three albums on facebook which you should be able to access:
Kilimanjaro
Safari
Amsterdam
Enjoy!
Kilimanjaro
Safari
Amsterdam
Enjoy!
Friday, October 1, 2010
Day 5
This was the big day. We were all so anxious about the summit attempt that night, we hadn't considered the long steep slog to the next campsite! We left Third Caves Campsite at about 8:15am. A great sunny day though a bit cold. It was a steady uphill climb and we soon broke up into three groups. I hung onto the first group. Jane was quite ill and had to stop several times - I thought she might need to descend which would have been upsetting as this trip was for her 50th birthday. Camille also started to feel ill with stomach pains but some eload seemed to help, at least temporarily.
Here is a shot that shows how steep it was. It became very windy and the clouds rolled up, bringing a nasty cold damp. I just tucked my head down and kept going. I had 4 layers on and was just right. 4 hours later we were at 4722m at the School Huts. Jane somehow summoned whatever to get to the top. She came in about 20 minutes after me. Very very impressive.
A quick picture and then we went to rest until supper. The idea was rest, be woken for dinner, and sleep until 10:30pm when we had to get ready for the summit attempt. We were advised to sleep in our clothes so we wouldn't have to search for things in the dark. I slept about an hour in total. Still no headache but quite light-headed and everything seemed to take the wind right out of me. I was still hungry though which was a good sign. The porters were partying though and I found it impossible to sleep. I was also cold even though I wore 2 pairs of wool socks, long johns, ski pants, wool undershirt, light fleece, medium fleece, thick fleece, 2 hats and gloves on! Imagine trying to squish down into a mummy sleeping bag with all that.
Day 4
Woke at 6am to frost on the outside of the tent - 3 degrees inside tent flap. I had slept with my camera and batteries in the foot of my sleeping bag.
This morning my camelbak started leaking and I had to empty out all the water. Luckily most of my stuff in the pack was in ziplock bags. But that left me with only one liter of water for the day. (Ironically, I had originally packed a second water bottle for just such a situation but my bag was too full so out it came). In the photo you can see the path we initially followed; however we diverted to the right onto another trail about 1/2 way down. You may also be able to see a small white building at the base of the mountain if you click on the photo and follow the trail - that is Kibo Huts, where we later descended from the summit.
Jonas advised us to wear long pants as the Saddle gets very windy. Indeed I needed my medium fleece, hat, gloves and jacket and my ears were still cold. At 10:30 we came to the wreckage where a small tourist plane crashed in 2008. Kind of eerie, the scraps of twisted metal still scattered around there.
It was shortly after that we diverted onto an alternate route. At times I could not even see a path but then I realized there were piles of rocks marking the way. It was a long day and I was quite tired by the time we reached camp. People were very quiet at lunch (Leek soup, carrot/bean frittata type thing, bread and fruit). Thankfully we had most of the afternoon off and it was much warmer in camp, being in a sheltered location. I had yet another soap stolen by the same damm bird and tried to air out some of my socks.
I managed to fix my camelbak thankfully - had a screw loose. My camera battery was still holding up. I was thinking a lot about Cindy and her surgery tomorrow and wished I could contact her somehow. Cell phone service spotty at best. Some have managed to send text messages to their families.
Lisa and Jim started working out tips today. Tips are contentious here. I was glad they took it on. We decided to give a set amount as prescribed by the Porters' Association recommendations to each person (Guides get the most, then Asst Guides and the Cook, then Porters). And then if we felt we wanted to tip someone for extra personal service, we could do so individually. This made a lot of sense to me. And I had to laugh when Lisa told us she had 36 individual small plastic bags on her.
There were less people at this campsite. It was very barren - hardly any plants - just a lot of volcanic rock. As I fell asleep, I could hear other trekkers talking about the summit attempt and not knowing what to expect. I had a lovely view of Kili from my tent - it seemed still so far away. Hard to believe we were going up to the very top the next day.
This morning my camelbak started leaking and I had to empty out all the water. Luckily most of my stuff in the pack was in ziplock bags. But that left me with only one liter of water for the day. (Ironically, I had originally packed a second water bottle for just such a situation but my bag was too full so out it came). In the photo you can see the path we initially followed; however we diverted to the right onto another trail about 1/2 way down. You may also be able to see a small white building at the base of the mountain if you click on the photo and follow the trail - that is Kibo Huts, where we later descended from the summit.Jonas advised us to wear long pants as the Saddle gets very windy. Indeed I needed my medium fleece, hat, gloves and jacket and my ears were still cold. At 10:30 we came to the wreckage where a small tourist plane crashed in 2008. Kind of eerie, the scraps of twisted metal still scattered around there.
It was shortly after that we diverted onto an alternate route. At times I could not even see a path but then I realized there were piles of rocks marking the way. It was a long day and I was quite tired by the time we reached camp. People were very quiet at lunch (Leek soup, carrot/bean frittata type thing, bread and fruit). Thankfully we had most of the afternoon off and it was much warmer in camp, being in a sheltered location. I had yet another soap stolen by the same damm bird and tried to air out some of my socks.I managed to fix my camelbak thankfully - had a screw loose. My camera battery was still holding up. I was thinking a lot about Cindy and her surgery tomorrow and wished I could contact her somehow. Cell phone service spotty at best. Some have managed to send text messages to their families.
Lisa and Jim started working out tips today. Tips are contentious here. I was glad they took it on. We decided to give a set amount as prescribed by the Porters' Association recommendations to each person (Guides get the most, then Asst Guides and the Cook, then Porters). And then if we felt we wanted to tip someone for extra personal service, we could do so individually. This made a lot of sense to me. And I had to laugh when Lisa told us she had 36 individual small plastic bags on her.
There were less people at this campsite. It was very barren - hardly any plants - just a lot of volcanic rock. As I fell asleep, I could hear other trekkers talking about the summit attempt and not knowing what to expect. I had a lovely view of Kili from my tent - it seemed still so far away. Hard to believe we were going up to the very top the next day.
Day 3
I had a bit of a dry throat this morning and tried to remind myself to drink more. One is supposed to drink at least 3 liters of water a day, plus absorb more through soup and tea at meals - to help with acclimizating to the altitude. I was only drinking about 1.5 liters.
Today was a short day with a morning hike, lunch at camp, rest and then an acclimization hike. Finally it was cool enough to wear a fleece - my one shirt was getting rather stinky! We left camp at about 8:15am. The landscape has been changing - more and more volcanic rock, less flowers and plants. The peak over my shoulder is where we were headed: Mawenki. Except thankfully we were not going to the top but rather a campsite on the side!
So far everyone is feeling okay. Some had started taking Diamox right away. After talking with 2 guides, I decided to wait as they suggested, to see how I felt. By the end of the day, I had passed my highest altitude level (Dead Woman's Pass on the Inca Trail) and still felt pretty good.
The campsite was next to a small freshwater lake. From a distance, it looked green but this was just grass growing around the edges. This was from where we got our next day's water supply. It was very cold waiting for lunch - I had my windproof jacket, heavy fleece, medium fleece and light fleece on as well as hat and gloves and was still chilled. Several groups came in while we were having dinner and I felt very badly for them as they must have been frozen.Lunch: Zucchini soup, fried chicken & fries, peppery vegetables, rolls, avocado, friend plantain (Immodium number 3).
After a rest, we went for an acclimization hike. This is a short hike to higher altitudes (I am guessing to see how your body reacts) and then back down to sleep where there is more oxygen. It was pretty cool looking down to the clouds and camp and then over and across to Kilimanjaro. The space in between is called The Saddle. While we stood and admired the views, Jonas, our quite stiff guide, suddenly started singing in a beautiful voice and the other porters joined in. It was very moving.Today we also saw our first casualty of the altitude. A woman was being carried down on a homemade stretcher sling by 4 porters. It reinforced in my mind the seriousness of what we were doing. I found I was already noticing the effect of altitude - just walking to the loo and back left me breathless for a few minutes. At supper my oxgen level was down to 86. However this was still considered good.
By 6pm it was 5 degrees in the tent. Jonas advised us to wear our down jackets - mine was enormous. Dinner (pumpkin soup, spaghetti and cookies) and then bed at 7:30pm.
Day 2
I woke to the sounds of the porters moving about at 6am. It was 5 degrees inside the flap of my tent and outside the walls were wet. A great view of Kili from the first campsite. Gibson and Philipo first brought round a tray with coffee and tea, then a bowl of warm water for washing.
Breakfast in the dining tent: Porridge, eggs, hot dog, bread, peanut butter, jam, coffee. I did try the porridge as Jonas had said this morning would be challenging but just couldn't get it down.
We left camp at 7:30 - it was 12 degrees. By 9am, it was 24 degrees. By 11am, it was 30 degrees and I was sweating. I also was wishing I had packed another light shirt - I had been so focused on the keeping warm aspect, I had only packed one! Some quite nice views down to the valley along the way. It was steep and slow going to the lunch break at the Second Caves. Pole, pole. There were a lot of groups ahead of us. About an hour for lunch and then another 3.5 hours of hiking - much easier than the morning - but still tiring. We diverted at this point for the first time and managed to lose some of the crowd. By the end of the day I needed my fleece (We all carried our fleeces in our knapsacks as the weather waas very unpredictable). We were now at 3670m altitude. Already I was filthy. The dust on Kilimanjaro is something else and as it had been so hot, I didn't put on gaiters. (Tip: If you're going to use gaiters, put them on right at the beginning - day 1).My first soap stolen. After washing, a big black bird stole my soap. This happened twice - I think the crew were wondering why I was stealing soap, lol.
This was the day Lisa's bag went missing. We heard a variety of reasons: The porter had succumbed to altitude sickness, the porter had gone the wrong way. It was getting very cold and we wondering if we would all have to crowd into one tent to keep her warm through the night. Finally it arrived after supper.
Supper: Coriander soup, beef stew with rice. (Immodium number 2).
I slept in long johns, wool top, fleece top, and wool socks. Got up at 3am to pee and looked up to see a sky absolutely full of stars.
Day 1
There were 10 in our group of trekkers: Lisa and Marilyn (UK), Camille (Fr.) and her husband Joost (Neth.), Michael (Mississauga), Jim and Jane (Tennessee) and Clive and Anne (Florida). Supporting us were Jonas the head guide, 3 assistant guides (Antony, Arson, and Ali) and "around" 31 other people. I say "around" as we never quite seemed to get a handle on how many were connected specifically with us... until tipping time, lol.
Day 1 of course I overslept but luckily I had packed the night before. I had my last smoke and ate as much as I could for breakfast. Here's me looking squeaky clean, all set to climb aboard our bus. We were picked up at the Outpost at about 8am and went round to the other two hotels to collect the others. It took until 1:30pm to reach the Rongai Gate. There was a pee break at 10 where I was introduced to my first squat toilet of the trip (no tp of course) and then we had a longish stop at the Marangua Gate where all groups need to register and pick up their permits.
Saturday was market day and the roads were full of people walking with a chicken dangling from their hands, baskets and bananas on their heads, loads strapped to bicycles.
But also the Rongai Route starts from the Kenyan side of the mountain so one has to drive around it.
We were given lunch (mushroom soup, tomato & cucumber sandwiches, papaya, bananas, avocado) and filled up on water. A table was set up in the "Tourist Shelter" with lawn chairs - very fancy!
We all lined up to sign the register with the park agent and were off. It took 3 and a bit hours to reach the first campsite. There was a short break every hour and 15 minutes or so. First we passed through farmland. Several kids came running out asking for candy. Then we headed into a wooded area. We saw some monkeys (black with white faces) but I couldn't get a good shot of them. A steady incline but not vigorous (yet).
I hope I didn't cause this fellow to capsize - he got tangled up between two trees shortly after this picture and some of the men in our group tried to right his motorcycle for him.
The first campsite was very crowded but Jonas had arranged for our group to be slightly away. We were already past the first level of clouds. It was still light but noticeably cooler by the time we arrived. Our tents had already been set up. First I was told to share with Lisa and Marilyn but Jonas wanted me to have my own tent as I needed "more oxygen".
Popcorn snack with tea, hot chocolate or coffee. Dinner: Curried cucumber soup, potatoes, vegetable curry, fried fish, cake. (Immodium number 1).
After supper Jonas came to measure our oxygen levels and heart rate with a nifty little gadget you inserted onto your finger. Of course I became immediately competitive about it, lol. Today 95 and 65. Bed by 9:20pm. 11 degrees. Slept in hat.
(Note: if you click on the pictures you will get a larger version)
Day 1 of course I overslept but luckily I had packed the night before. I had my last smoke and ate as much as I could for breakfast. Here's me looking squeaky clean, all set to climb aboard our bus. We were picked up at the Outpost at about 8am and went round to the other two hotels to collect the others. It took until 1:30pm to reach the Rongai Gate. There was a pee break at 10 where I was introduced to my first squat toilet of the trip (no tp of course) and then we had a longish stop at the Marangua Gate where all groups need to register and pick up their permits. Saturday was market day and the roads were full of people walking with a chicken dangling from their hands, baskets and bananas on their heads, loads strapped to bicycles.
But also the Rongai Route starts from the Kenyan side of the mountain so one has to drive around it.We were given lunch (mushroom soup, tomato & cucumber sandwiches, papaya, bananas, avocado) and filled up on water. A table was set up in the "Tourist Shelter" with lawn chairs - very fancy!
We all lined up to sign the register with the park agent and were off. It took 3 and a bit hours to reach the first campsite. There was a short break every hour and 15 minutes or so. First we passed through farmland. Several kids came running out asking for candy. Then we headed into a wooded area. We saw some monkeys (black with white faces) but I couldn't get a good shot of them. A steady incline but not vigorous (yet).
I hope I didn't cause this fellow to capsize - he got tangled up between two trees shortly after this picture and some of the men in our group tried to right his motorcycle for him.The first campsite was very crowded but Jonas had arranged for our group to be slightly away. We were already past the first level of clouds. It was still light but noticeably cooler by the time we arrived. Our tents had already been set up. First I was told to share with Lisa and Marilyn but Jonas wanted me to have my own tent as I needed "more oxygen".
Popcorn snack with tea, hot chocolate or coffee. Dinner: Curried cucumber soup, potatoes, vegetable curry, fried fish, cake. (Immodium number 1).
After supper Jonas came to measure our oxygen levels and heart rate with a nifty little gadget you inserted onto your finger. Of course I became immediately competitive about it, lol. Today 95 and 65. Bed by 9:20pm. 11 degrees. Slept in hat.
(Note: if you click on the pictures you will get a larger version)
Thursday, September 30, 2010
home safe
Well it's been a bit of a crazy week but I am finally home - very tired. Will start updating tomorrow - took lots of notes and pictures.
Friday, September 24, 2010
safe and sound
For those of you who don't have acess to my facebook accont. Just returned from mountain- made it to the top (without Diamox) - hardest thing I have ever done. Great experience. Jim, I thought of you at the top when I was delirious with exhaustion and lack of oxygen! lol. Feet and lips ripped to shreds.
Safari tomorrow. Will update from Amsterdam on Wed.
Safari tomorrow. Will update from Amsterdam on Wed.
Friday, September 17, 2010
Arusha 2
I am in an internet shop in downtown Arusha. The speed is a lot faster thank god. After I met with Peter, one of my neighbours came over to chat with me. His group had just returned from the same route with the same company. They were from the UK. The three of them walked me into town. It does take me a bit to "acclimitatize" to a new place. They warned me about the hawkers and indeed they are ferocious. I have one watching the shop for me when I come out, lol. It goes against my nature to be rude but one has to be.
My new friends also advised me about tipping. I am in big doo-doo about the tips. They said they each put in $250USD. They had a slightly smaller group than mine but not by much. I had budgeted and taken $75 as that is what the book suggested. Tips always turn out to be more than what you thought - this happened in Peru too. Apparently the book is way off. So I will have to go get more money from the ATM and they will have to get schillings. Of course I forgot my cheat sheet (have I mentioned how bloody disorganized I am for this trip?) at the hotel so when confronted with do you want to take out 50,000, 100,000, 200,000 or some other amount?, I was not sure. I took out 100,000 and looking it up now on the net, that turns out to be $67 Canadian dollars - oof. So I have to go back.
I'll have a quick look about if I can escape my stalker and then spend the rest of the day resting/packing/sorting at the hotel. I really wanted to buy some Kilimanjaro coffee and a tshirt but it's looking tricky. There is no "tourist section" (as far as I can tell) where you can find things easily. Traffic is crazy (cross at your own risk) and the sidewalks are a mess. I'll try to get some pictures.
I have a briefing at 6 tonight where hopefully I'll get the stuff I rented. Departure is at 7:30 tomorrow morning, likely on the same bus we all came in on from the airport. It's about 5-6 hours of travel to the start of the trek as it's near the Kenyan border around the other side. It's market day Saturday so hopefully I'll see lots as we drive through the villages.
I will try for a brief "hi I'm still alive" post Friday night from the hotel before heading out on the safari Saturday morning. I'm taking notes to jog my memory and will fill this in later at home with pics.
So far, so good. Other than the hawker and the money issues, everything is going well and I am enjoying myself immensely. Forgot to say I saw 2 cats at the airport running about outside. Took that to be a good omen. Didn't expect to see any except for the big ones, of course. lol.
Ok off. Hope I can find my way home!
My new friends also advised me about tipping. I am in big doo-doo about the tips. They said they each put in $250USD. They had a slightly smaller group than mine but not by much. I had budgeted and taken $75 as that is what the book suggested. Tips always turn out to be more than what you thought - this happened in Peru too. Apparently the book is way off. So I will have to go get more money from the ATM and they will have to get schillings. Of course I forgot my cheat sheet (have I mentioned how bloody disorganized I am for this trip?) at the hotel so when confronted with do you want to take out 50,000, 100,000, 200,000 or some other amount?, I was not sure. I took out 100,000 and looking it up now on the net, that turns out to be $67 Canadian dollars - oof. So I have to go back.
I'll have a quick look about if I can escape my stalker and then spend the rest of the day resting/packing/sorting at the hotel. I really wanted to buy some Kilimanjaro coffee and a tshirt but it's looking tricky. There is no "tourist section" (as far as I can tell) where you can find things easily. Traffic is crazy (cross at your own risk) and the sidewalks are a mess. I'll try to get some pictures.
I have a briefing at 6 tonight where hopefully I'll get the stuff I rented. Departure is at 7:30 tomorrow morning, likely on the same bus we all came in on from the airport. It's about 5-6 hours of travel to the start of the trek as it's near the Kenyan border around the other side. It's market day Saturday so hopefully I'll see lots as we drive through the villages.
I will try for a brief "hi I'm still alive" post Friday night from the hotel before heading out on the safari Saturday morning. I'm taking notes to jog my memory and will fill this in later at home with pics.
So far, so good. Other than the hawker and the money issues, everything is going well and I am enjoying myself immensely. Forgot to say I saw 2 cats at the airport running about outside. Took that to be a good omen. Didn't expect to see any except for the big ones, of course. lol.
Ok off. Hope I can find my way home!
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Arusha
I am in Arusha on the slowest computer I have ever seen. Arrived around 11:30pm last night - toast. Bag came through - met some people in my group - 2 of them were not so lucky. Got some sleep on the plane - scored 3 seats in a row.
Sheila, you were asking how hard it was to meet people travelling as a single person. I picked a couple from The Netherlands this morning at breakfast and just asked them for advice. People tend to be very forthcoming.
The Outpost is basic but okay. (ie. There is a bed and hot water) Everyone was dropped off before me and I had to laugh. The first hotel was gorgeous, far from town, lovely landscaping, guests met with cold drink, you get the picture. Road horrendous. Then was a hotel a step down, another nice looking place but still far from town and the road bad. My hotel is about 15 min from town and the road was smooth.
I'm meeting Peter to pay my safari deposit shortly. I've locked up all my extra money, passport and ticket in the hotel safe which is a cupboard with a huge padlock. Then I'll likely head into town after lunch to change some money and buy some water. I am very thirsty - should have packed a large bottle in Amsterdam. Hopefully I'll be able to find an internet cafe with faster access so I can read my email and go thru the arduous security questions facebook asks when you travel to confirm your identity. It would take days on this computer.
Sheila, you were asking how hard it was to meet people travelling as a single person. I picked a couple from The Netherlands this morning at breakfast and just asked them for advice. People tend to be very forthcoming.
The Outpost is basic but okay. (ie. There is a bed and hot water) Everyone was dropped off before me and I had to laugh. The first hotel was gorgeous, far from town, lovely landscaping, guests met with cold drink, you get the picture. Road horrendous. Then was a hotel a step down, another nice looking place but still far from town and the road bad. My hotel is about 15 min from town and the road was smooth.
I'm meeting Peter to pay my safari deposit shortly. I've locked up all my extra money, passport and ticket in the hotel safe which is a cupboard with a huge padlock. Then I'll likely head into town after lunch to change some money and buy some water. I am very thirsty - should have packed a large bottle in Amsterdam. Hopefully I'll be able to find an internet cafe with faster access so I can read my email and go thru the arduous security questions facebook asks when you travel to confirm your identity. It would take days on this computer.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Amsterdam
Only have 26 minutes left on my internet access so typing as fast as I can. Flight booked solid - no sleep - biggest plane I've ever been on (3 seats, 4 seats, 3 seats). Enjoyed the company of two women from Kenya who said I would "be very welcome in Africa." Taking that as a good omen. Good food, free booze, personal screens. Forgot how my legs go crazy on long flights so spent time walking around while most slept.
Flight very fast - 6.5 hours. Landed early so entered the country so could have a smoke outside. :) Had my passport stamped going in and leaving which I thought very funny given it was all in the space of one hour! Glancing into the shops and seeing flowers for sale makes me think I will love this city. Also saw train station where I will go when I pass thru next time - great airport. Found grocery store in mall adjoining airport - bought bananas, a roll and a small pack of cheese. I am lost re the euro as my cheet sheets are in the bottom of my knapsack which is stuffed to the gills so have spent $20 on that!
Feel tired but ok considering it is about 3 am in Toronto. Leaving for Kilimanjaro in 2 hours. Gate changed - lucky I checked, but after missing a flight am now slightly paranoid.
Money belt a pain in the... now carrying three currencies, an interac card and 2 visas. Will be happy to unload some of it into the hotel safe and just deal with one currency.
Will update from Arusha, likely Friday.
Flight very fast - 6.5 hours. Landed early so entered the country so could have a smoke outside. :) Had my passport stamped going in and leaving which I thought very funny given it was all in the space of one hour! Glancing into the shops and seeing flowers for sale makes me think I will love this city. Also saw train station where I will go when I pass thru next time - great airport. Found grocery store in mall adjoining airport - bought bananas, a roll and a small pack of cheese. I am lost re the euro as my cheet sheets are in the bottom of my knapsack which is stuffed to the gills so have spent $20 on that!
Feel tired but ok considering it is about 3 am in Toronto. Leaving for Kilimanjaro in 2 hours. Gate changed - lucky I checked, but after missing a flight am now slightly paranoid.
Money belt a pain in the... now carrying three currencies, an interac card and 2 visas. Will be happy to unload some of it into the hotel safe and just deal with one currency.
Will update from Arusha, likely Friday.
time difference
Arusha, Tanzania is 7 hours ahead of Toronto. So please send positive vibes my way Thursday, Sept. 23 around suppertime YYZ time - that's when I'll be starting out on my "summit attempt".
leaving today
So here I am at 10am with just the last bits to shove into my knapsack, the floor to mop, clothes to change. I think I can manage "all" that in the next 3 1/2 hours! lol.
I slept through the night but woke at 4:30. Strange how even tho I am dead excited about this trip, I prolonged getting going and lay there for a while. I think it's because I am rather nervous now the day is finally here. I'll settle as soon as I get on the plane. It still feels a bit unreal.
A mad rush this morning though - to the Y to say bye to Bob who is running his first half marathon while I am away and to Euleen who was very reassuring. I also weighed myself as I heard a rumour one may lose up to 10 pounds on this trek! Then to the bank to take out cat sitting money and more money to change into US. An hour of panic when I could not find a second down mitt while packing. Much downloading of podcasts - TEDTalks, Moth stories and all the news - and recharging of camera batteries. Then cleaning - it's now okay to my standards at least. Bye to my elderly neighbours. The cats are all hiding except for Grace who is sleeping as per usual. I can't shake the feeling I've forgotten something.
I'm taking the ttc route to the airport - $3 instead of $60! - but will take a cab home as I predict I'll be all done in and anxious to get home.
Total travel time from Toronto Airport to Kilimanjaro Airport: 26 hours and 30 minutes. Total flying distance: 12,909 kms.
I slept through the night but woke at 4:30. Strange how even tho I am dead excited about this trip, I prolonged getting going and lay there for a while. I think it's because I am rather nervous now the day is finally here. I'll settle as soon as I get on the plane. It still feels a bit unreal.
A mad rush this morning though - to the Y to say bye to Bob who is running his first half marathon while I am away and to Euleen who was very reassuring. I also weighed myself as I heard a rumour one may lose up to 10 pounds on this trek! Then to the bank to take out cat sitting money and more money to change into US. An hour of panic when I could not find a second down mitt while packing. Much downloading of podcasts - TEDTalks, Moth stories and all the news - and recharging of camera batteries. Then cleaning - it's now okay to my standards at least. Bye to my elderly neighbours. The cats are all hiding except for Grace who is sleeping as per usual. I can't shake the feeling I've forgotten something.
I'm taking the ttc route to the airport - $3 instead of $60! - but will take a cab home as I predict I'll be all done in and anxious to get home.
Total travel time from Toronto Airport to Kilimanjaro Airport: 26 hours and 30 minutes. Total flying distance: 12,909 kms.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
US dollars
Damm. Knew I should have done this sooner. I just sat down and worked out the tips for the trek and the safari, plus the US dollars for the rental of down sleeping bag ($4 a day), down jacket ($4 a day) and poles ($2 a day) and of course I don't have enough small US bills. I thought $50 would be enough but the trek tips alone eat that up. So I'll have to run to the bank first thing tomorrow and see if I can get more.
finally!
The last two days of work have been absolutely crazy. Nuf said. I am finally on vacation!
Still haven't packed, written my cat notes or cleaned the house. Discovered on Monday I had lost my money belt. Thankfully Cindy had one as I'll be carrying $1,000USD on me. Once at the hotel, of course it will all go in the safe.
Physically I am completely exhausted. Mentally I am excited and determined to soak in every moment of this trip.
Still haven't packed, written my cat notes or cleaned the house. Discovered on Monday I had lost my money belt. Thankfully Cindy had one as I'll be carrying $1,000USD on me. Once at the hotel, of course it will all go in the safe.
Physically I am completely exhausted. Mentally I am excited and determined to soak in every moment of this trip.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Weekend to End Women's Cancers
Cindy walked in the Weekend so I got a lot of training in! Saturday, walked total of 15k and Sunday, accompanied her all day (26k) carrying her knapsack with the supplies she needed. It was a very emotional experience and I am so glad I went and was able to share some of it with her and with Rishika and with the rest of the team.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
gaiters galore
Today I was at the Y as usual and was surprised to find Jim and Euleen waiting for me after spin class. Both had brought gaiters. Jim had gone so far as to go down to mec and buy new laces; Euleen had come by the Y specially to drop her's off for me. I felt a bit overwhelmed by their generosity. I don't know them that well. It's been a real struggle to find everything I need and a lot of scurrying about but they made this particular item easy and I am very grateful. So if you're reading this, thank you.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
thoughts - one week to go
Oh my god, oh my god, can I go now??? Oh my god, oh my god, I don't have this and I need more of that and oh crikey, I still need to pick that up from so and so. I can't go now. Oh my god, oh my god, what was I thinking? I'm going to climb Africa's highest mountain. Oh my god, oh my god, yes, dammit I am. And even if I'm puking and crying from exhaustion, whatever is thrown at me, I'm going to love every minute (except for the flying part of course, which I will still hate).
Monday, September 6, 2010
long flights, old school
I just noticed that my flights with KLM (ranging from 7.5 hours to 10 hours) don't all have seat tvs. They are in the process of working their way through the fleet to rectify this. I have been so spoilt by Air Canada! I expect I'll be quite tired anyway and can sleep just about anywhere but I was looking forward to watching some European film. My god, I'll have to read!
Actually I think I'll take a few books but download podcasts onto my old iPod. Who knows I might return ready for level 2 Spanish! Tho that might be rather annoying for the people around me to listen to... uno dos tres...
Actually I think I'll take a few books but download podcasts onto my old iPod. Who knows I might return ready for level 2 Spanish! Tho that might be rather annoying for the people around me to listen to... uno dos tres...
Sunday, September 5, 2010
safari booked
Last night I finalized arrangements with Peter Tours for the safari. In the end, I decided to go cheaper, with a group rather than on my own. Tho when we meet, I will ask about how many in the group and say 2 others would be fine with me. He is coming to the Outpost on Friday, Sept. 17 to pick up his deposit ($300 USD cash) and to drop off a sleeping bag for me to use. I pay the guide the rest when he comes to pick me up on the 25th. I feel very relieved that the safari part is now sorted.
I am sorry things didn't work out with Amanda and African Scenic Safaris. They would be great for someone with a little more flexibility in their plans.
I am sorry things didn't work out with Amanda and African Scenic Safaris. They would be great for someone with a little more flexibility in their plans.
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Amani Children’s Home
One of the things I wish I could have fit in was a visit to the Amani Children’s Home in Moshi.
Amani Children’s Home is dedicated to the protection of Tanzania’s most vulnerable population: street-children and AIDS orphans. It is estimated that there are 2.5 million orphaned children in Tanzania.
Since its founding by Tanzanians in 2001, Amani has rescued hundreds of children from the perils of life on the streets, where they face a high risk of HIV transmission, malnutrition, and abuse.
Visitors are invited to take a tour of Amani and learn more about our programs within the community. Afterwards you can spend time with the children, kicking around a soccer ball, coloring or playing games.
Amani deeply appreciates the desire to bring supplies for the children. Most items that the kids need can be purchased locally quite cheaply. However, there are always some supplies that cannot be purchased in Tanzania.
I checked the bus schedule but it just doesn't work. Moshi is 1.5 hours away from Arusha.
Amani Children’s Home is dedicated to the protection of Tanzania’s most vulnerable population: street-children and AIDS orphans. It is estimated that there are 2.5 million orphaned children in Tanzania.
Since its founding by Tanzanians in 2001, Amani has rescued hundreds of children from the perils of life on the streets, where they face a high risk of HIV transmission, malnutrition, and abuse.
Visitors are invited to take a tour of Amani and learn more about our programs within the community. Afterwards you can spend time with the children, kicking around a soccer ball, coloring or playing games.
Amani deeply appreciates the desire to bring supplies for the children. Most items that the kids need can be purchased locally quite cheaply. However, there are always some supplies that cannot be purchased in Tanzania.
I checked the bus schedule but it just doesn't work. Moshi is 1.5 hours away from Arusha.
new safari options
Two emails this morning, one from Sunny Safaris and one from Peter Tours. Both have similiar itineraries. To be fair, I filled in a form on Sunny's website rather than write out an email with all my questions which may have affected the response which was to quote prices for 2 people/4 people only.
Peter Tours is run by a local man who came up through the Kili ranks - porter - guide. I get a good feeling from his email. He is offering a private safari for $1400 USD (cheap!) or a group of 4 for $680 USD p/p. How I wish I could find one other person and pay something in between so we're not crammed into the jeep. The drawbacks of being a solo traveller!
Anyway, it's a load off my mind to have a new plan. I tossed and turned last night. I'm sure it is easy to find a safari in one day in Arusha but I didn't want to do that - apparently sellers hound you relentlessly as you walk down the street. How to judge the company on the fly? It would be lousy to end up with a bad experience.
Peter Tours is run by a local man who came up through the Kili ranks - porter - guide. I get a good feeling from his email. He is offering a private safari for $1400 USD (cheap!) or a group of 4 for $680 USD p/p. How I wish I could find one other person and pay something in between so we're not crammed into the jeep. The drawbacks of being a solo traveller!
Anyway, it's a load off my mind to have a new plan. I tossed and turned last night. I'm sure it is easy to find a safari in one day in Arusha but I didn't want to do that - apparently sellers hound you relentlessly as you walk down the street. How to judge the company on the fly? It would be lousy to end up with a bad experience.
Friday, September 3, 2010
Amsterdam - alt.cruise
With the safari portion on hold, I've been looking at Amsterdam more. I don't think I'll have time for this as you can't book ahead and the spaces fill up quickly but it looks lovely.
The St. Nicolaas Boat Club of Amsterdam is a non-profit organization dedicated to the preservation of historic boats on the Amsterdam canals.
Founded in 1997, the stichting (non-profit club) has given boat rides to thousands of people. This is a unique opportunity to see Amsterdam from the perspective of a historic open-air tuindersvlet. These boats were traditionally used to carry agricultural products to markets. They were also used as general barges to shuttle materials around cities.
time considerations
Note to people considering this trip or something similiar: I've made my schedule too tight. I only have 2 weeks' vacation a year so it had to be so. The thought was that I would be able to confirm everything before I left. I heard back from Amanda today (her previous email had gotten lost, apparently, and as she's been prompt in responding 6 times before, I believe her). She won't perhaps be able to confirm until about 4 days before the safari is supposed to leave. The trouble with that is I'm on my trek then and have to check out of my hotel the morning after I return. Most people seem to book the shorter safaris when they arrive, much I did for my day trips in Cusco. It would have been better to have either 2 days in Arusha before the trek or a day after the trek to cover "emergencies" like this.
So now I'm scrambling. I did some more research and came up with Sunny Safaris which is a larger operation located in Arusha. They have an identical trip so emailed them for a quote and more information. I've also contacted Peter Tours, which I found through the Lonely Planet Forums.
Nothing like adrenalin to get you moving! I also posted a "looking for travel companions" note on TravBuddy.com, Lonely Planet and twitter.
I emailed Amanda back - she responded immediately - and here are my choices:
If we do not find anyone we can definitely organize a private safari just for yourself. This is however much more expensive as there is no one to help split up the costs. You're looking at USD$1900 for the 4 day safari [vs. my initial $590USD if jeep is full]
Let us know if you want to confirm the trip, even if, worst case scenario we do not find others. The other option is we keep looking, if not successful by the time you get to Arusha you can ask around there, then last case scenario we confirm a private safari just for yourself.
I think I'll stall for a few days to see what the other two companies have to say and then make a decision.
So now I'm scrambling. I did some more research and came up with Sunny Safaris which is a larger operation located in Arusha. They have an identical trip so emailed them for a quote and more information. I've also contacted Peter Tours, which I found through the Lonely Planet Forums.
Nothing like adrenalin to get you moving! I also posted a "looking for travel companions" note on TravBuddy.com, Lonely Planet and twitter.
I emailed Amanda back - she responded immediately - and here are my choices:
If we do not find anyone we can definitely organize a private safari just for yourself. This is however much more expensive as there is no one to help split up the costs. You're looking at USD$1900 for the 4 day safari [vs. my initial $590USD if jeep is full]
Let us know if you want to confirm the trip, even if, worst case scenario we do not find others. The other option is we keep looking, if not successful by the time you get to Arusha you can ask around there, then last case scenario we confirm a private safari just for yourself.
I think I'll stall for a few days to see what the other two companies have to say and then make a decision.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
anti-malaria pills and Diamox
I have to start my anti-malaria pills (22 pills for $131.11) one week before I leave so picked them up with the Diamox ($12.20 for 10 250mg pills). The pharmacist said I might experience "vivid" dreams as a side effect. Good ones or bad ones?, I asked. A mixture he cautiously replied.
I gulped a bit when paying. Between vaccinations and medications I estimate I have spent about $400 just on reducing my risk of getting ill. It reminded me of how lucky I am, one to have such easy access and to be able to afford these shots and pills and two, to live in a country where the bite of a mosquito is an irritant and nothing more.
I gulped a bit when paying. Between vaccinations and medications I estimate I have spent about $400 just on reducing my risk of getting ill. It reminded me of how lucky I am, one to have such easy access and to be able to afford these shots and pills and two, to live in a country where the bite of a mosquito is an irritant and nothing more.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
how does this thing work?
Last night I picked up my friend Heather's ski pants and 2 litre platypus. Of course as soon as I got home, I wanted to test my new water system so I went to the sink and filled it with water. Some weird gauze stuff floated by inside - oops, that must have been part of the packaging. I shove it into my new knapsack to see if it fits properly in the provided pouch and it does and everything seems beautiful. Then I think I should see how the tube works because I've never used one before. I suck hard on the tube. I bite the tube. I hold the bag as high over my head as possible thinking maybe it's a gravity thing. Then I get my reading glasses and look at the instructions. I lift the valve to open it. Progress but still no water. I'm thinking how hard do I have to suck on this thing and at high altitude too? I'm about to cut a hole in the tube as I can't see where the water is to come out when suddenly I realize I've been sucking on the cap that covers the nozzle. Oi. Water flows freely.
What can I say? I'm hopelessly un-mechanical. And hey it does work now, which is the important thing. I'm going to properly test it this Saturday on a 17k hike.
What can I say? I'm hopelessly un-mechanical. And hey it does work now, which is the important thing. I'm going to properly test it this Saturday on a 17k hike.
thoughts - 2 weeks to go
People ask me if I'm excited about this trip. Of course I am. It is the trip of a lifetime. If I had time, I would spend all day reading blogs about the mountain and watch YouTube videos until I could recognize from the scenery which route people were on.
The reality is I have a mountain of work to get through before I leave. And I am extremely stressed because I know however many notes I send, it will be chaos while I'm away. I'm not even sure I have enough time to write all the notes! But there is an end in sight and it's coming up quickly. Once I leave for the airport, I'll not care one bit. I'll probably even have a good chuckle about it.
After two false starts, my friend Cindy's surgery was finally scheduled for Sept. 22 when I will be completely inaccessible - day 4 of the trek. I had a premonition this would happen. If I had a premonition, you ask, why did I not reschedule sooner? I'm asking myself that same question. I feel very badly that I will not be there for her. I'm upset I will not know anything for 4 days.
I'm worried I have underestimated the mountain and not trained enough. I keep reading about marathoners finding it hard. But I also read about it not being about fitness levels but taking it slowly - pole, pole - and hydrating, eating, etc.
I'm stressed because I haven't heard a peep back from the safari people who have been so prompt in responding up until now when I need them to give me a final price and say "okay we're picking you up on Sept 25". I don't want to have to scurry around when I get to Arusha to find another safari weeding through all the street hawkers. I only have one jet-lagged day there and just want to relax. I considered changing my flight and either spending more time in Amsterdam or (gasp) coming back early if they don't come through. In the end, I decided to give them until Friday night and if they don't respond, ask Henry to arrange a private safari. I'm not happy about the extra expense as it will be about 3 times what I expected to pay going with a group but I'll never be in Tanzania again. So I'll just have to suck it up.
But yes, I am excited. lol.
The reality is I have a mountain of work to get through before I leave. And I am extremely stressed because I know however many notes I send, it will be chaos while I'm away. I'm not even sure I have enough time to write all the notes! But there is an end in sight and it's coming up quickly. Once I leave for the airport, I'll not care one bit. I'll probably even have a good chuckle about it.
After two false starts, my friend Cindy's surgery was finally scheduled for Sept. 22 when I will be completely inaccessible - day 4 of the trek. I had a premonition this would happen. If I had a premonition, you ask, why did I not reschedule sooner? I'm asking myself that same question. I feel very badly that I will not be there for her. I'm upset I will not know anything for 4 days.
I'm worried I have underestimated the mountain and not trained enough. I keep reading about marathoners finding it hard. But I also read about it not being about fitness levels but taking it slowly - pole, pole - and hydrating, eating, etc.
I'm stressed because I haven't heard a peep back from the safari people who have been so prompt in responding up until now when I need them to give me a final price and say "okay we're picking you up on Sept 25". I don't want to have to scurry around when I get to Arusha to find another safari weeding through all the street hawkers. I only have one jet-lagged day there and just want to relax. I considered changing my flight and either spending more time in Amsterdam or (gasp) coming back early if they don't come through. In the end, I decided to give them until Friday night and if they don't respond, ask Henry to arrange a private safari. I'm not happy about the extra expense as it will be about 3 times what I expected to pay going with a group but I'll never be in Tanzania again. So I'll just have to suck it up.
But yes, I am excited. lol.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
carrying things
Yesterday my order from mec arrived, much to my relief. To make a long story short, I wasn't 100% sure about the daypack I was considering and then suddenly they were out of stock so I had to order it online (3-13 business days). To get the free shipping and to save the hassle of lugging it home on my bike, I had added my duffle bag to the order. So I was in a bit of a panic - 13 business days landed right before I leave!
I purchased all three bags needed for the trip from mec:
1 - large (110 litres) MEC duffle bag to carry everything for the whole trip and to leave stuff back at the hotel while on the trek
2 - Women's medium 22 litre Black Diamond Pulse Daypack - smaller than recommended but I could not find anything in the 30 litre size - for carrying during the day. It has space for a hydration system and many adjustable straps. My hesitation was in the complete lack of pockets -- there is only one with a zipper. But I found it very comfortable with lots of weight thrown in and that has to be the most important criteria. The women's model did fit my hips better (most annoying as the men's colours were much nicer!)
3 - MEC Dry bag - 55 litres - for the porter to carry. I read someone else's account and this is what he used. It is waterproof and will hopefully be more comfortable for the porter's head. It will contain my sleeping bag and everything else that I'm not carrying that day. The total weight has to be under 15kg.
I didn't buy a waterporoof knapsack cover as my poncho covers everything and the route I am taking see much less rain than the other side of the mountain.
After the trek, I'll let you know if this combination worked well or what I would do differently.
I purchased all three bags needed for the trip from mec:
1 - large (110 litres) MEC duffle bag to carry everything for the whole trip and to leave stuff back at the hotel while on the trek
2 - Women's medium 22 litre Black Diamond Pulse Daypack - smaller than recommended but I could not find anything in the 30 litre size - for carrying during the day. It has space for a hydration system and many adjustable straps. My hesitation was in the complete lack of pockets -- there is only one with a zipper. But I found it very comfortable with lots of weight thrown in and that has to be the most important criteria. The women's model did fit my hips better (most annoying as the men's colours were much nicer!)
3 - MEC Dry bag - 55 litres - for the porter to carry. I read someone else's account and this is what he used. It is waterproof and will hopefully be more comfortable for the porter's head. It will contain my sleeping bag and everything else that I'm not carrying that day. The total weight has to be under 15kg.
I didn't buy a waterporoof knapsack cover as my poncho covers everything and the route I am taking see much less rain than the other side of the mountain.
After the trek, I'll let you know if this combination worked well or what I would do differently.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Altitude sickness - the worst kind
"With severe AMS, on the other hand, there will be no debate about whether or not to continue: if anybody is showing symptoms of severe AMS it is imperative that they descend immediately. These symptoms include a lack of coordination and balance, a symptom known as ataxia. Other symptoms of severe AMS include mental confusion, slurred or incoherent speech, and an inability to stay awake. There may also be a gurgling, liquid sound in the lungs combined with a persistent watery cough which may produce a clear liquid, a pinky phlegm or possibly even blood. There may also be a marked blueness around the face and lips, and a heartbeat that, even at rest, may be over 130 beats per minute."
Henry Stedman
That sounds nasty. I hope it doesn't happen to any of us.
Henry Stedman
That sounds nasty. I hope it doesn't happen to any of us.
Altitude sickness - the mild kind
"The symptoms of mild AMS are not dissimilar to the symptoms of a particularly vicious hangover, namely a thumping headache, nausea and a general feeling of lousiness. An AMS headache is generally agreed to be one of the most dreadful headaches you can get, a blinding pain that thuds continuously at ever decreasing intervals; only those who have bungee-jumped from a 99ft building with a 100ft elasticated rope will know the intense, repetitive pain AMS can cause. Thankfully, the usual headache remedies should prove effective against a mild AMS headache though do be careful as they can also mask any worsening of symptoms. As with a hangover, mild AMS sufferers often have trouble sleeping and, when they do, that sleep can be light and intermittent. They can also suffer from a lack of appetite. Given the energy you’ve expended getting to altitude in the first place, both of these symptoms can seem surprising if you’re not aware of AMS."
Henry Stedman
Headaches I am used to and I'd like to see anything stop me from sleeping - 2 flips and zzzz.
Henry Stedman
Headaches I am used to and I'd like to see anything stop me from sleeping - 2 flips and zzzz.
Friday, August 27, 2010
recharging
I've opted to take only my digital camera and leave the rest of my electronics at home. I bought a second camera battery at a nasty $70 but think I will need a recharge before setting out on safari. They use 220v in Tanzania with the English style plug. We use 110v in Canada. Problem.
This site turned out to be very helpful: Adaptelec.com, International Electrical Specialists (checked a few other sites to confirm the info).
I wasn't sure what I needed - convertor, adapter, transformer: all Greek to me. I checked my camera charger and apparently it will handle the 220v but the plug is wrong shape so just need to get a Type G British 3-pin Electrical Adapter. MEC sells an International Adapter Plug Kit for $10. That ought to cover the next few trips I'm planning as well so good investment. Now if only they would get them in stock! I see a last minute MEC run in my future, lol.
This site turned out to be very helpful: Adaptelec.com, International Electrical Specialists (checked a few other sites to confirm the info).
I wasn't sure what I needed - convertor, adapter, transformer: all Greek to me. I checked my camera charger and apparently it will handle the 220v but the plug is wrong shape so just need to get a Type G British 3-pin Electrical Adapter. MEC sells an International Adapter Plug Kit for $10. That ought to cover the next few trips I'm planning as well so good investment. Now if only they would get them in stock! I see a last minute MEC run in my future, lol.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Amsterdam - The Cat Boat
Today someone told me about The Cat Boat. I do hope it's still there.
The Cat Boat is the only animal sanctuary in the Netherlands that literally floats. A refuge for stray and abandoned cats which, thanks to its unique location on a houseboat in Amsterdam's picturesque canal belt, has become a world-famous tourist attraction.
How perfect is that? I just checked the map and it's very close to my B&B. In fact, I think it's just on the street. Cat boat - Singel 38.G and my place - Singel 83. Yes, two matching Singels.
Note: It's only open 2 hours a day (1-3pm).
Added later: Damm I just noticed it's closed on Wednesdays. I keep thinking I'm in Amsterdam Thursday but I moved everything up a day.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
temperatures
...the temperatures on Mount Kilimanjaro range from hot to bitter cold. The journey from the gate to the peak is like traveling from the equator to Antarctica in a matter of days. This is because the routes to the Uhuru peak cross different ecological zones. Mount Kilimanjaro has five major ecological zones, each approximately 3,280 feet (1,000 m) in altitude. Each zone is subject to a corresponding decrease in rainfall, temperature and life as the altitude increases.
Due to its proximity to the equator, Mount Kilimanjaro does not experience wide temperature changes from season to season. Instead, the temperatures on Mount Kilimanjaro are determined more so by the altitude and time of day. At the beginning of the climb, at the base of the mountain, the average temperature is around 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 27 degrees Celsius). From there, the temperatures will decrease as you move through Mount Kilimanjaro's ecological zones. At the summit, Uhuru Point, the night time temperatures can range between 0 and -15 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -26 degrees Celsius).
Ultimate Kilimanjaro
Yesterday I tried on all my layers and could hardly move. I think I might have to email Henry and ask him to set aside an XL down jacket, rather than a large, to fit over everything!
Due to its proximity to the equator, Mount Kilimanjaro does not experience wide temperature changes from season to season. Instead, the temperatures on Mount Kilimanjaro are determined more so by the altitude and time of day. At the beginning of the climb, at the base of the mountain, the average temperature is around 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 27 degrees Celsius). From there, the temperatures will decrease as you move through Mount Kilimanjaro's ecological zones. At the summit, Uhuru Point, the night time temperatures can range between 0 and -15 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -26 degrees Celsius).
Ultimate Kilimanjaro
Yesterday I tried on all my layers and could hardly move. I think I might have to email Henry and ask him to set aside an XL down jacket, rather than a large, to fit over everything!
Monday, August 23, 2010
fleece
Once again I am obsessing about fleece. I have lost some weight since Peru and my old trekking clothes are hanging on me. I have plenty of long underwear and base layers but nothing to go on top. (Thank you, H, for lending me your ski pants!) MEC is not getting their winter stuff in until October. Europe Bound makes me nuts and is over-priced. I am reluctant to purchase clothing online and besides, often they won't ship it to Canada or will charge huge courier costs. I'll have to try the Europe Bound outlet store, Altitude (the newly purchased Coast Mountain Sports), Sporting Life and Higher Ground by telephoning them. (Their websites are hopeless!)
I've rented a down jacket from the trekking company which I am sure I'll appreciate at the end of the day when I'm tired and standing still.
I've rented a down jacket from the trekking company which I am sure I'll appreciate at the end of the day when I'm tired and standing still.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
safari
I must admit I'm getting a little anxious about this portion of my trip. Amanda from African Scenic Safaris has been very prompt in responding to my emails but I have yet to place a deposit and am wondering what happens if she can't fill the jeep. I guess I am too embedded in the western way of trip planning - settle everything way ahead of time. She assures she can so I'll have to believe she can. But I'll also be emailing her again before I go to request some kind of confirmation as my hotel will be kicking me out on Saturday! I did check with an English woman who had travelled with them before and she gave them a very high recommendation.
Anyway, here is the itinerary for the 4 night safari. It's a bit of a rush, leaving the very next morning after returning from the trek.
Sat. Sept. 25 - Lake Manyara
This morning you will depart for Lake Manyara National Park. Spend the afternoon on a game drive of this park, described as one of the hidden gems of Tanzania. This park is famous for its tree climbing lions and large herds of elephant.
Overnight at Lake Manyara
(Apparently the tree-climbing lions have been more successfully spotted in Seregenti)
Sun. Sept. 26 - Serengeti
After breakfast drive to one of the most famous game parks in Africa, the Serengeti. Here is home to millions of wilderbeest during the migration and over the huge flat plains you are likely to find lion, cheetah, leopard, elephant, giraffe, zebra, hyena and many other small predators. All afternoon will be spent on game drive before enjoying dinner and the experience of sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti.
Overnight in Seronera (the centre of the Serengeti)
Mon. Sept. 27 - Serengeti/Ngorongoro Crater
An early morning start in the Serengeti to try and find cats before they retreat away from the blazing sun during the day. After a few hours game drive in the Serengeti drive to the Ngorongoro Crater.
Overnight camp at the rooftop of the crater, providing amazing views.
Tues. Sept. 28 - Ngorongoro Crater
This morning you will descend into the Ngorongoro Crater - a wonderful haven for wildlife. Ngorongoro is unique in that almost all the wildlife live within the crater walls hence you have the opportunity to find game easily. Rhino, in particular, can be seen regularly as well as prides of lion and other predators like cheetah. Enjoy lunch by the hippo pond before beginning your drive back to Arusha/Moshi. (Photo: William Warby)
(From another website: Called the eighth wonder of the world, Ngorongoro Crater is the world's largest unbroken and unflooded volcanic caldera in the Eastern (Great) Rift Valley, northern Tanzania, Africa. It lies 75 miles west of the town of Arusha. The crater measures between 10 and 12 miles across and has an area of 102 square miles. Its rim is heavily forested and rises 2,000 feet above the caldera’s floor to an elevation of 7,500 feet. It is included within a UNESCO World Heritage site designated in 1979.)
They will be dropping me off at Kilimanjaro airport for the overnight flight to Amsterdam via Dar es Salaam.
You know, a lot of people seem to want to witness a "kill" - I rather hope I do not. I will be quite content to just see a few lions, zebras and giraffes walking about and peacefully enjoy lunch by the hippo pond.
Anyway, here is the itinerary for the 4 night safari. It's a bit of a rush, leaving the very next morning after returning from the trek.
Sat. Sept. 25 - Lake ManyaraThis morning you will depart for Lake Manyara National Park. Spend the afternoon on a game drive of this park, described as one of the hidden gems of Tanzania. This park is famous for its tree climbing lions and large herds of elephant.
Overnight at Lake Manyara
(Apparently the tree-climbing lions have been more successfully spotted in Seregenti)
Sun. Sept. 26 - Serengeti After breakfast drive to one of the most famous game parks in Africa, the Serengeti. Here is home to millions of wilderbeest during the migration and over the huge flat plains you are likely to find lion, cheetah, leopard, elephant, giraffe, zebra, hyena and many other small predators. All afternoon will be spent on game drive before enjoying dinner and the experience of sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti.
Overnight in Seronera (the centre of the Serengeti)
Mon. Sept. 27 - Serengeti/Ngorongoro Crater
An early morning start in the Serengeti to try and find cats before they retreat away from the blazing sun during the day. After a few hours game drive in the Serengeti drive to the Ngorongoro Crater.
Overnight camp at the rooftop of the crater, providing amazing views.
Tues. Sept. 28 - Ngorongoro CraterThis morning you will descend into the Ngorongoro Crater - a wonderful haven for wildlife. Ngorongoro is unique in that almost all the wildlife live within the crater walls hence you have the opportunity to find game easily. Rhino, in particular, can be seen regularly as well as prides of lion and other predators like cheetah. Enjoy lunch by the hippo pond before beginning your drive back to Arusha/Moshi. (Photo: William Warby)
(From another website: Called the eighth wonder of the world, Ngorongoro Crater is the world's largest unbroken and unflooded volcanic caldera in the Eastern (Great) Rift Valley, northern Tanzania, Africa. It lies 75 miles west of the town of Arusha. The crater measures between 10 and 12 miles across and has an area of 102 square miles. Its rim is heavily forested and rises 2,000 feet above the caldera’s floor to an elevation of 7,500 feet. It is included within a UNESCO World Heritage site designated in 1979.)
They will be dropping me off at Kilimanjaro airport for the overnight flight to Amsterdam via Dar es Salaam.
You know, a lot of people seem to want to witness a "kill" - I rather hope I do not. I will be quite content to just see a few lions, zebras and giraffes walking about and peacefully enjoy lunch by the hippo pond.
Friday, August 20, 2010
change in route
This morning, an email from Henry with a little surprise:
After 18 months, several other agencies, having noted the path our route takes - and the high success rate - and have started to adopt it as well. While we were the only ones using the route, it was not a problem. But now KINAPA (the Kiimanjaro National Park Authority) have decreed that too many people were cimbing via the Barafu Route to the summit, and have decided to stop anybody from using the Unique Rongai Route.
Uh oh.
Long and short is we will be taking a slightly different path at times, as a result. Henry asks if I mind. Of course, I don't. Further down in the email, I note the following sentence:
This 'new' path running up from XX is harder – and this is perhaps the biggest drawback with this new route.
Harder? Hmm. But again I don't know what was hard to can't compare. Just relieved we are all still able to take the Rongai Route and not have to switch to one of the more crowded ones.
Previously on day 5 – the day before the long nighttime trek up Kibo – you would arrive at camp at around 4pm because the total trek was 9km in length that day. This meant you had little time to relax, rest, and prepare yourself for the night-time climb to come. On this new route, however, the distance is only 4.9km on day 5, meaning that you should arrive at least an hour or two earlier – allowing you time to prepare yourself properly for the rigours ahead.
Yeah to that!
After 18 months, several other agencies, having noted the path our route takes - and the high success rate - and have started to adopt it as well. While we were the only ones using the route, it was not a problem. But now KINAPA (the Kiimanjaro National Park Authority) have decreed that too many people were cimbing via the Barafu Route to the summit, and have decided to stop anybody from using the Unique Rongai Route.
Uh oh.
Long and short is we will be taking a slightly different path at times, as a result. Henry asks if I mind. Of course, I don't. Further down in the email, I note the following sentence:
This 'new' path running up from XX is harder – and this is perhaps the biggest drawback with this new route.
Harder? Hmm. But again I don't know what was hard to can't compare. Just relieved we are all still able to take the Rongai Route and not have to switch to one of the more crowded ones.
Previously on day 5 – the day before the long nighttime trek up Kibo – you would arrive at camp at around 4pm because the total trek was 9km in length that day. This meant you had little time to relax, rest, and prepare yourself for the night-time climb to come. On this new route, however, the distance is only 4.9km on day 5, meaning that you should arrive at least an hour or two earlier – allowing you time to prepare yourself properly for the rigours ahead.
Yeah to that!
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
money issues
"ATMs in Arusha should not be relied on as a means of obtaining cash for payments on arrival as they do not issue US Dollars and are often underfunded, with daily withdrawal limits being as low as TZS 200,000 (around USD 150)."
"[Bring US] notes printed in the year 2000 or later. The reason for requiring new notes is that Arusha banks have relatively primitive authentication technology and will not accept older notes. Similarly, most bureaux des changes will not accept older notes and where they do accept them, they will usually only pay around 70% of their face value. The reason for requiring denominations of 100s and 50s is that where local currency is required to be obtained by our representatives, bureax des changes will generally only pay some 70-85% of the face value of smaller denomination notes. Denominations larger than 100s are generally not accepted by Arusha banks."
-- Team Kilimanjaro - Safaris
"[Bring US] notes printed in the year 2000 or later. The reason for requiring new notes is that Arusha banks have relatively primitive authentication technology and will not accept older notes. Similarly, most bureaux des changes will not accept older notes and where they do accept them, they will usually only pay around 70% of their face value. The reason for requiring denominations of 100s and 50s is that where local currency is required to be obtained by our representatives, bureax des changes will generally only pay some 70-85% of the face value of smaller denomination notes. Denominations larger than 100s are generally not accepted by Arusha banks."
-- Team Kilimanjaro - Safaris
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
travel medical insurance
After receiving ridiculously high quotes from my bank, I decided to go with the Lonely Planet-recommended World Nomads. I did double check "high-altitude" trekking was covered before signing up. Cost $137 CAD including tax for 3 weeks.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
water, water
One is told to carry and drink at least 3 liters of water a day on the trek. On the Inca Trail I only carried 2 bike bottles (750ml each). This is a whole new ball game. Water is heavy. Yesterday I was trying on yet another knapsack and the clerk put in 10lbs of weight; he said that was about 2 liters of water. Yikes. Also, on summit night, it will be about minus 10-15 so water freezes.
Choice: 3 thermal water bottles (2 in the outer pockets of my knapsack and one inside) or a platypus or camelbak (which is like a large water bag with a very long straw).
I decided to split the difference and carry both. A 2 liter camelbak which will hopefully distibute the weight better on my back and remind me to drink, 1 insulated water bottle and 1 extra bottle, just in case. One of the my fellow trekkers in Peru sprang a leak in her "water hydration system" and she had a hard time after that. I'm going to spend a bit more and buy the camelbak that they drove a truck over to test. When it comes to equipment, I don't believe in pinching here and there.
I'll have to keep the camelbak under my coat somehow for the summit attempt and make sure I remember to blow back into the tube after drinking as people have said that is often the part that freezes. I need to reread the notes as I can't recall if we carry our regular knapsacks up to the top or go with as little as possible.
I also have to buy chlorine tablets because although the cook boils our water and adds tablets, apparently sometimes they run out!
And eLoad tablets are also on my shopping list. Those are good when you're sweating alot, to replace the electrolytes in your body. Much easier on your stomach than Gatorade.
The other water item I need to look up is about hotel tap water. Is it safe to drink or do I need to buy water? I seem to remember buying huge bottles of water in Cusco so I expect it will be the same.
Choice: 3 thermal water bottles (2 in the outer pockets of my knapsack and one inside) or a platypus or camelbak (which is like a large water bag with a very long straw).
I decided to split the difference and carry both. A 2 liter camelbak which will hopefully distibute the weight better on my back and remind me to drink, 1 insulated water bottle and 1 extra bottle, just in case. One of the my fellow trekkers in Peru sprang a leak in her "water hydration system" and she had a hard time after that. I'm going to spend a bit more and buy the camelbak that they drove a truck over to test. When it comes to equipment, I don't believe in pinching here and there.
I'll have to keep the camelbak under my coat somehow for the summit attempt and make sure I remember to blow back into the tube after drinking as people have said that is often the part that freezes. I need to reread the notes as I can't recall if we carry our regular knapsacks up to the top or go with as little as possible.
I also have to buy chlorine tablets because although the cook boils our water and adds tablets, apparently sometimes they run out!
And eLoad tablets are also on my shopping list. Those are good when you're sweating alot, to replace the electrolytes in your body. Much easier on your stomach than Gatorade.
The other water item I need to look up is about hotel tap water. Is it safe to drink or do I need to buy water? I seem to remember buying huge bottles of water in Cusco so I expect it will be the same.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
visas, wiring money
Today I nervously sent my new passport to Ottawa for a visa. I'm tracking it online. The visa cost $75, the money order $5.50, 2 xpresspost envelopes another $21. One supposedly can get an entry visa at Kilimanjaro Airport easily enough but after my complicated money-wiring experience on Friday, I think I'd rather have it now. I also know I'll be dead tired when I get there and one less line-up will be great.
Note: Canadian banks charge very high fees to wire US dollars overseas. First you pay a currency conversion fee and then the wire transfer fee. I was rather perturbed by the clerk taking about 1/2 hour to do it, staring blankly at the screen more than a few times. I asked "what happens if it goes to the wrong place?" "Oh it's a real mess", he answers, "All kinds of fees and complications." The teller finally fetched his supervisor for help. Now I had 2 serious faces staring at the screen. Eee. I should have stayed with paypal. HS had warned me about paypal's "take" but actually it would have been about the same and far less nerve-wracking for me.
When I got home, I checked my account right away - no WARNING YOUR MONEY HAS GONE TO HELL AND YOU WILL NEVER SEE IT AGAIN... messages - good. Then I emailed HS and asked him to let me know when he got it. Three days later, yes, everything was fine.
Update: Passport and visa arrived safely home within one week. The visa is a full page fancy-loooking affair printed inside my passport - a great souvenir.
Note: Canadian banks charge very high fees to wire US dollars overseas. First you pay a currency conversion fee and then the wire transfer fee. I was rather perturbed by the clerk taking about 1/2 hour to do it, staring blankly at the screen more than a few times. I asked "what happens if it goes to the wrong place?" "Oh it's a real mess", he answers, "All kinds of fees and complications." The teller finally fetched his supervisor for help. Now I had 2 serious faces staring at the screen. Eee. I should have stayed with paypal. HS had warned me about paypal's "take" but actually it would have been about the same and far less nerve-wracking for me.
When I got home, I checked my account right away - no WARNING YOUR MONEY HAS GONE TO HELL AND YOU WILL NEVER SEE IT AGAIN... messages - good. Then I emailed HS and asked him to let me know when he got it. Three days later, yes, everything was fine.
Update: Passport and visa arrived safely home within one week. The visa is a full page fancy-loooking affair printed inside my passport - a great souvenir.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Kilimanjaro routes
Click on the picture for a larger version - I'm taking the Rongai route (close to but not exactly as the red one) up and the Marangau route (green) down.
itinerary
Wednesday, Sept. 15 -- fly Toronto to Amsterdam (overnight)
Thursday, Sept. 16 -- fly Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro (all day)
Friday, Sept. 17 - rest day, Arusha
Saturday, Sept. 18 - leave on trek
Arusha to Rongai Gate; Rongai Gate (1997m) to Simba Camp (2635m)
7km
Sunday, Sept. 19
Simba Camp to Kikelelwa Camp (3675m)
11.75km
Monday, Sept. 20
Kikelelwa Campsite to Mawenzi Tarn Hut (4302m)
3.75km plus acclimization hike in afternoon
Tuesday, Sept. 21
Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Horombo Huts (3714m)
10.1km
Wednesday, Sept. 22
Horombo Huts to Barafu Huts (4662m)
9km
Thursday, Sept. 23
Summit attempt - full moon - depart at midnight
Stella Point (5745m)
Summit (5895m)
descent to Horombo (3721m)
20.61km
Friday, Sept. 24
Horombo Huts to Marangu Gate (1905m) via Machame Route
collapse at hotel
20.8km
Saturday, Sept. 25
leave on camping safari (more detailed itinerary here)
Lake Manyara
Sunday, Sept. 26
Serengeti
Monday, Sept. 27
Serengeti/Ngorongoro Crater
Tuesday, Sept. 28
Ngorongoro Crater
back from safari, drop-off at airport
fly to Amsterdam (overnight)
Wednesday, Sept. 29
Amsterdam - arrive 7am
Bike tour - pm
Thursday, Sept. 30
Amsterdam, morning - canal cruise
afternoon - fly to Toronto
Thursday, Sept. 16 -- fly Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro (all day)
Friday, Sept. 17 - rest day, Arusha
Saturday, Sept. 18 - leave on trek
Arusha to Rongai Gate; Rongai Gate (1997m) to Simba Camp (2635m)
7km
Sunday, Sept. 19
Simba Camp to Kikelelwa Camp (3675m)
11.75km
Monday, Sept. 20
Kikelelwa Campsite to Mawenzi Tarn Hut (4302m)
3.75km plus acclimization hike in afternoon
Tuesday, Sept. 21
Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Horombo Huts (3714m)
10.1km
Wednesday, Sept. 22
Horombo Huts to Barafu Huts (4662m)
9km
Thursday, Sept. 23
Summit attempt - full moon - depart at midnight
Stella Point (5745m)
Summit (5895m)
descent to Horombo (3721m)
20.61km
Friday, Sept. 24
Horombo Huts to Marangu Gate (1905m) via Machame Route
collapse at hotel
20.8km
Saturday, Sept. 25
leave on camping safari (more detailed itinerary here)
Lake Manyara
Sunday, Sept. 26
Serengeti
Monday, Sept. 27
Serengeti/Ngorongoro Crater
Tuesday, Sept. 28
Ngorongoro Crater
back from safari, drop-off at airport
fly to Amsterdam (overnight)
Wednesday, Sept. 29
Amsterdam - arrive 7am
Bike tour - pm
Thursday, Sept. 30
Amsterdam, morning - canal cruise
afternoon - fly to Toronto
Saturday, July 24, 2010
have passport, will travel
My new passport came back in exactly two weeks, which is excellent considering I had taken the application in to a Service Centre ("up to a month") rather than to a passport office ("up to 10 days"). I was relieved they didn't reject the photos - the Service Centre Passport-Picture-Approval-guy (yes, there is such a person) made me get them redone in black and white (there was a "shine" on my nose) and then still expressed doubt they would pass. I protested that there was a shine on my nose last passport and the passport before that in the exact same spot. But the guidelines are much stricter now, he said. I almost went to powder my nose for real in the bathroom out of desperation.
Friday, July 23, 2010
vaccinations
$250 for 2 vaccinations (Yellow fever/Hepatitis) and 2 prescriptions (anti-malaria tablets and Diamox for altitude sickness prevention). Not covered by OHIP. Ouch. My arm is a little sore too. I had to find a special Travel Health Clinic government-certified to give the Yellow fever shot. Medisys was most convenient and the cheapest. The doctor proceeded to inform me that Yellow fever was no longer required for Tanzania. I asked for it anyway as it is recommended. It's good for 10 years. So now I am covered for everything but Rabies and HIV for probably the rest of my travelling life!
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
fellow trekkers
"Regarding your fellow trekkers, there are a couple aged 51 and 49, two ladies aged 38 and 58, a couple both aged 29, a man and woman (not sure if couple) aged 49 and 54, and a guy aged 38."
At first I thought my there's a few older people on this trip and then I remembered I am 47 myself. lol. I forget. I am a bit relieved to hear about the age diversity of the group. On the Inca Trail, it was me and 3 couples in their early 20's and although they were friendly, it's different huffing and puffing with people in their 40s and 50s.
At first I thought my there's a few older people on this trip and then I remembered I am 47 myself. lol. I forget. I am a bit relieved to hear about the age diversity of the group. On the Inca Trail, it was me and 3 couples in their early 20's and although they were friendly, it's different huffing and puffing with people in their 40s and 50s.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Insulated bottles
"Add a Sigg style metal/aluminium water bottles to your Kilimanjaro equipment list. Why? They double as hot water bottles at night. (All water on Kilimanjaro needs to be boiled for drinking, and your team should boil a big tub every night to fill all bottles.)
Wrap any damp clothing items that you want to dry around the bottle and shove it in the bottom of your sleeping bag before you climb in. Bliss, and your clothes are dry in the morning."
(MountKilimanjaroGuide.com)
My problem is I am cheap, cheap and Sigg bottles are very expensive. But I am having trouble finding 1 liter insulated bottles so if Europe Bound doesn't have anything cheaper, I may as well get funky Sigg bottles. It's cold on summit night (sometimes minus 20 depending on the wind chill) and I don't think I want to be staring at bottles of ice.
Wrap any damp clothing items that you want to dry around the bottle and shove it in the bottom of your sleeping bag before you climb in. Bliss, and your clothes are dry in the morning."
(MountKilimanjaroGuide.com)
My problem is I am cheap, cheap and Sigg bottles are very expensive. But I am having trouble finding 1 liter insulated bottles so if Europe Bound doesn't have anything cheaper, I may as well get funky Sigg bottles. It's cold on summit night (sometimes minus 20 depending on the wind chill) and I don't think I want to be staring at bottles of ice.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
training
I went on my first training hike with the Toronto Bruce Trail Club today. It was stinking hot. I think the leader shortened the route so we ended up doing about 13k.
For this first hike, I decided to focus on my boots so carried a waist bag which held food and a bike bottle of water instead of a knapsack. I almost ran out of water but other than that, felt strong and boots/ double socking worked well. I was tired when I got home but not sore. It is great to feel so much fitter than when I was training for the Inca Trail 2 years ago.
9 weeks to go!
For this first hike, I decided to focus on my boots so carried a waist bag which held food and a bike bottle of water instead of a knapsack. I almost ran out of water but other than that, felt strong and boots/ double socking worked well. I was tired when I got home but not sore. It is great to feel so much fitter than when I was training for the Inca Trail 2 years ago.
9 weeks to go!
Friday, July 16, 2010
bits of headway
Spent a few hours at mec today trying on daypacks (amazing how they feel completely different when you shove some weighted bean bags into them!), hunting for insulated water bottles for summit night (no luck), trying on pants (no luck). I did buy a 55l waterproof stuff sack for the actual trek as another blogger had suggested. A duffle will do for the plane and to leave unneeded items at the hotel. I decided to wait until the winter clothing comes in for the fleeces I need and focus on the summer clothes (try to catch some sales).
My list for the trek is quite long. Some of the items I have from Peru: a headlamp, decent hiking boots, socks and a rain poncho, for example; some I have because I am Canadian: wooly underwear, hats and gloves. I'm renting a minus 20 sleeping bag, a down jacket and trekking poles so I don't have to lug them about on safari.
I am learning a lot along the way and that makes me happy. I met a cute young man at mec who looked at me differently when I explained I was going to Kilimanjaro. I find that interesting too, and in some ways gratifying. One minute, a middle-aged grey-haired woman and the next, an ageless bold adventurer who's climbing Africa's highest mountain, lol.
My list for the trek is quite long. Some of the items I have from Peru: a headlamp, decent hiking boots, socks and a rain poncho, for example; some I have because I am Canadian: wooly underwear, hats and gloves. I'm renting a minus 20 sleeping bag, a down jacket and trekking poles so I don't have to lug them about on safari.
I am learning a lot along the way and that makes me happy. I met a cute young man at mec who looked at me differently when I explained I was going to Kilimanjaro. I find that interesting too, and in some ways gratifying. One minute, a middle-aged grey-haired woman and the next, an ageless bold adventurer who's climbing Africa's highest mountain, lol.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
batteries on the mountain
"I just came back from Kilimanjaro a few weeks ago and it was an incredible experience! As the previous post mentioned, definitely keep your batteries (including headlamp batteries) in your sleeping bag at night. On summit night keep a spare battery in a ziploc bag to prevent condensation caused by your body. Also bring a cleaning kit for your camera and lenses. It's very very dry and dusty on the mountain!! "
Post in BootsnAll forum
Post in BootsnAll forum
Sunday, July 11, 2010
different
I wasn't really aware of it at first -- it was such a rushed trip and then boom! I was back at work -- but slowly it has creeped into my consciousness. I feel different after climbing Kilimanjaro. I can't accurately describe why or how different. Do others feel this way after? I think it's a bit of awe that we actually did it but it runs deeper than that.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Ooooh scarey
Advice given to another trekker by his group re the final climb:
Tonight is very difficult - particularly the final 500m - and you’ll need to commit to fight for the summit. You will inevitably feel like giving up and going to sleep. This is normal and can be overcome with perseverance. When resting please ensure you only stand or sit and do not lie down or close your eyes.
When you reach Gilman’s Point you will sit and rest. At this point the body often thinks you have finished your uphill fight and will be trying to coerce you into giving up and turning around. While you may genuinely believe that you have already exhausted your reserves in reaching this point, this is actually very unlikely to be so. Remember that you are only 214 vertical meters short of the summit, the journey from here is much less steep, and you have plenty of time for further pauses. If you do feel the need to give up at Stella Point please proceed towards the summit for just two minutes.
On the summit your guide will advise how much time you can spend there in consideration of your condition, your timings, and the weather. The brain does not function very intelligently at this altitude so please remember to take many photographs in all directions or you will probably regret not having done so at a later stage.
I love the way they write. When I am on that final push, I will likely think back to these words, especially about the brain not functioning very intelligently, lol.
Tonight is very difficult - particularly the final 500m - and you’ll need to commit to fight for the summit. You will inevitably feel like giving up and going to sleep. This is normal and can be overcome with perseverance. When resting please ensure you only stand or sit and do not lie down or close your eyes.
When you reach Gilman’s Point you will sit and rest. At this point the body often thinks you have finished your uphill fight and will be trying to coerce you into giving up and turning around. While you may genuinely believe that you have already exhausted your reserves in reaching this point, this is actually very unlikely to be so. Remember that you are only 214 vertical meters short of the summit, the journey from here is much less steep, and you have plenty of time for further pauses. If you do feel the need to give up at Stella Point please proceed towards the summit for just two minutes.
On the summit your guide will advise how much time you can spend there in consideration of your condition, your timings, and the weather. The brain does not function very intelligently at this altitude so please remember to take many photographs in all directions or you will probably regret not having done so at a later stage.
I love the way they write. When I am on that final push, I will likely think back to these words, especially about the brain not functioning very intelligently, lol.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
altitude sickness
One obviously has to be reasonably fit to hike anywhere 5-18 hours per day for 8 days; it is altitude sickness which most often forces people to turn back. I will be crushed if I have to do that.
The highest I've ever been is Dead Woman's Pass on the Inca Trail: 4,200 metres. I felt fine at that. We pass that level before the end of day 3. Kilimanjaro's highest peak is 5895 metres.
I've been reading a lot about Diamox and have decided to take it in preventative measures rather than if I begin to experience any uncomfortable symptons. There's a cut-off period where if you haven't taken it already, you can't start so it seems a bit risky to me. Apparently it makes you pee more. As I already have to get up twice in the night, I am seriously considering a women's pee funnel!
The highest I've ever been is Dead Woman's Pass on the Inca Trail: 4,200 metres. I felt fine at that. We pass that level before the end of day 3. Kilimanjaro's highest peak is 5895 metres.
I've been reading a lot about Diamox and have decided to take it in preventative measures rather than if I begin to experience any uncomfortable symptons. There's a cut-off period where if you haven't taken it already, you can't start so it seems a bit risky to me. Apparently it makes you pee more. As I already have to get up twice in the night, I am seriously considering a women's pee funnel!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Amsterdam
I hate to dwaddle on my way home but a 6 hour layover in Amsterdam seemed to be messaging me "go into the city and check it out for crying out loud." I also thought if that damm volcano popped again, at least I would have a bed. So I booked one night at the Hotel Brouwer:
Located on the Singel canal in the heart of old Amsterdam, the hotel has been run by the Brouwer family since 1917. The historic building, dating from 1652, recently underwent a four year renovation to restore it to its orignial 17th century splendor.
I sure hope the view from my window looks like this:
And I also hope I am awake enough to soak it all in.
It is walkable from the train station and has good reviews on TripAdvisor.com. I was surprised when I was able to reserve with a single email - no deposit required.
I am making the train station my "base" for this short stopover. I'll be coming in from the airport and going back out again through there (20 minutes, ticket $5.80 one way). It'll be a bit of a rush but really there's only 3 things I want to do there: a bike tour, as Amsterdam is the city of bikes, the canal tour and of course because I love trams, ride a tram somewhere.
Located on the Singel canal in the heart of old Amsterdam, the hotel has been run by the Brouwer family since 1917. The historic building, dating from 1652, recently underwent a four year renovation to restore it to its orignial 17th century splendor.
I sure hope the view from my window looks like this:
And I also hope I am awake enough to soak it all in.
It is walkable from the train station and has good reviews on TripAdvisor.com. I was surprised when I was able to reserve with a single email - no deposit required.
I am making the train station my "base" for this short stopover. I'll be coming in from the airport and going back out again through there (20 minutes, ticket $5.80 one way). It'll be a bit of a rush but really there's only 3 things I want to do there: a bike tour, as Amsterdam is the city of bikes, the canal tour and of course because I love trams, ride a tram somewhere.
Monday, May 10, 2010
Getting around Amsterdam
In July 2008, the Dutch national railways (NS) and the public transport company of Amsterdam (GVB) started to sell a new ticket at the airport Schiphol. The Amsterdam All in one ticket is specially developed for people visiting Amsterdam and arriving at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. This ticket consists of a return trip from Schiphol Airport to Amsterdam together with a 24-, 48-, 72- or 96 hours ticket for unlimited travel on the GVB network in Amsterdam includng the nightbusses which are normally € 3,50 one way. Prices for the Amsterdam All in one tickets are:-
Prices 2010
24 hours € 13.20
48 hours € 17.25
72 hours € 20.85
96 hours € 24.45
The Ticket is only sold at the Airport at the Holland Tourist Information desk.
Prices 2010
24 hours € 13.20
48 hours € 17.25
72 hours € 20.85
96 hours € 24.45
The Ticket is only sold at the Airport at the Holland Tourist Information desk.
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