carrying things

Yesterday my order from mec arrived, much to my relief. To make a long story short, I wasn't 100% sure about the daypack I was considering and then suddenly they were out of stock so I had to order it online (3-13 business days). To get the free shipping and to save the hassle of lugging it home on my bike, I had added my duffle bag to the order. So I was in a bit of a panic - 13 business days landed right before I leave!

I purchased all three bags needed for the trip from mec:
1 - large (110 litres) MEC duffle bag to carry everything for the whole trip and to leave stuff back at the hotel while on the trek

2 - Women's medium 22 litre Black Diamond Pulse Daypack - smaller than recommended but I could not find anything in the 30 litre size - for carrying during the day. It has space for a hydration system and many adjustable straps. My hesitation was in the complete lack of pockets -- there is only one with a zipper. But I found it very comfortable with lots of weight thrown in and that has to be the most important criteria. The women's model did fit my hips better (most annoying as the men's colours were much nicer!)

3 - MEC Dry bag - 55 litres - for the porter to carry. I read someone else's account and this is what he used. It is waterproof and will hopefully be more comfortable for the porter's head. It will contain my sleeping bag and everything else that I'm not carrying that day. The total weight has to be under 15kg.

I didn't buy a waterporoof knapsack cover as my poncho covers everything and the route I am taking see much less rain than the other side of the mountain.

After the trek, I'll let you know if this combination worked well or what I would do differently.

Altitude sickness - the worst kind

"With severe AMS, on the other hand, there will be no debate about whether or not to continue: if anybody is showing symptoms of severe AMS it is imperative that they descend immediately. These symptoms include a lack of coordination and balance, a symptom known as ataxia. Other symptoms of severe AMS include mental confusion, slurred or incoherent speech, and an inability to stay awake. There may also be a gurgling, liquid sound in the lungs combined with a persistent watery cough which may produce a clear liquid, a pinky phlegm or possibly even blood. There may also be a marked blueness around the face and lips, and a heartbeat that, even at rest, may be over 130 beats per minute."
Henry Stedman

That sounds nasty. I hope it doesn't happen to any of us.

Altitude sickness - the mild kind

"The symptoms of mild AMS are not dissimilar to the symptoms of a particularly vicious hangover, namely a thumping headache, nausea and a general feeling of lousiness. An AMS headache is generally agreed to be one of the most dreadful headaches you can get, a blinding pain that thuds continuously at ever decreasing intervals; only those who have bungee-jumped from a 99ft building with a 100ft elasticated rope will know the intense, repetitive pain AMS can cause. Thankfully, the usual headache remedies should prove effective against a mild AMS headache though do be careful as they can also mask any worsening of symptoms. As with a hangover, mild AMS sufferers often have trouble sleeping and, when they do, that sleep can be light and intermittent. They can also suffer from a lack of appetite. Given the energy you’ve expended getting to altitude in the first place, both of these symptoms can seem surprising if you’re not aware of AMS."
Henry Stedman

Headaches I am used to and I'd like to see anything stop me from sleeping - 2 flips and zzzz.

recharging

I've opted to take only my digital camera and leave the rest of my electronics at home. I bought a second camera battery at a nasty $70 but think I will need a recharge before setting out on safari. They use 220v in Tanzania with the English style plug. We use 110v in Canada. Problem.

This site turned out to be very helpful: Adaptelec.com, International Electrical Specialists (checked a few other sites to confirm the info).
I wasn't sure what I needed - convertor, adapter, transformer: all Greek to me. I checked my camera charger and apparently it will handle the 220v but the plug is wrong shape so just need to get a Type G British 3-pin Electrical Adapter. MEC sells an International Adapter Plug Kit for $10. That ought to cover the next few trips I'm planning as well so good investment. Now if only they would get them in stock! I see a last minute MEC run in my future, lol.

Amsterdam - The Cat Boat

Today someone told me about The Cat Boat. I do hope it's still there.

The Cat Boat is the only animal sanctuary in the Netherlands that literally floats. A refuge for stray and abandoned cats which, thanks to its unique location on a houseboat in Amsterdam's picturesque canal belt, has become a world-famous tourist attraction.

How perfect is that? I just checked the map and it's very close to my B&B. In fact, I think it's just on the street. Cat boat - Singel 38.G and my place - Singel 83. Yes, two matching Singels.

Note: It's only open 2 hours a day (1-3pm).

Added later: Damm I just noticed it's closed on Wednesdays. I keep thinking I'm in Amsterdam Thursday but I moved everything up a day.

temperatures

...the temperatures on Mount Kilimanjaro range from hot to bitter cold. The journey from the gate to the peak is like traveling from the equator to Antarctica in a matter of days. This is because the routes to the Uhuru peak cross different ecological zones. Mount Kilimanjaro has five major ecological zones, each approximately 3,280 feet (1,000 m) in altitude. Each zone is subject to a corresponding decrease in rainfall, temperature and life as the altitude increases.

Due to its proximity to the equator, Mount Kilimanjaro does not experience wide temperature changes from season to season. Instead, the temperatures on Mount Kilimanjaro are determined more so by the altitude and time of day. At the beginning of the climb, at the base of the mountain, the average temperature is around 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 27 degrees Celsius). From there, the temperatures will decrease as you move through Mount Kilimanjaro's ecological zones. At the summit, Uhuru Point, the night time temperatures can range between 0 and -15 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -26 degrees Celsius).
Ultimate Kilimanjaro

Yesterday I tried on all my layers and could hardly move. I think I might have to email Henry and ask him to set aside an XL down jacket, rather than a large, to fit over everything!

fleece

Once again I am obsessing about fleece. I have lost some weight since Peru and my old trekking clothes are hanging on me. I have plenty of long underwear and base layers but nothing to go on top. (Thank you, H, for lending me your ski pants!) MEC is not getting their winter stuff in until October. Europe Bound makes me nuts and is over-priced. I am reluctant to purchase clothing online and besides, often they won't ship it to Canada or will charge huge courier costs. I'll have to try the Europe Bound outlet store, Altitude (the newly purchased Coast Mountain Sports), Sporting Life and Higher Ground by telephoning them. (Their websites are hopeless!)

I've rented a down jacket from the trekking company which I am sure I'll appreciate at the end of the day when I'm tired and standing still.

safari

I must admit I'm getting a little anxious about this portion of my trip. Amanda from African Scenic Safaris has been very prompt in responding to my emails but I have yet to place a deposit and am wondering what happens if she can't fill the jeep. I guess I am too embedded in the western way of trip planning - settle everything way ahead of time. She assures she can so I'll have to believe she can. But I'll also be emailing her again before I go to request some kind of confirmation as my hotel will be kicking me out on Saturday! I did check with an English woman who had travelled with them before and she gave them a very high recommendation.

Anyway, here is the itinerary for the 4 night safari. It's a bit of a rush, leaving the very next morning after returning from the trek.

Sat. Sept. 25 - Lake Manyara
This morning you will depart for Lake Manyara National Park. Spend the afternoon on a game drive of this park, described as one of the hidden gems of Tanzania. This park is famous for its tree climbing lions and large herds of elephant.
Overnight at Lake Manyara
(Apparently the tree-climbing lions have been more successfully spotted in Seregenti)

Sun. Sept. 26 - Serengeti
After breakfast drive to one of the most famous game parks in Africa, the Serengeti. Here is home to millions of wilderbeest during the migration and over the huge flat plains you are likely to find lion, cheetah, leopard, elephant, giraffe, zebra, hyena and many other small predators. All afternoon will be spent on game drive before enjoying dinner and the experience of sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti.
Overnight in Seronera (the centre of the Serengeti)

Mon. Sept. 27 - Serengeti/Ngorongoro Crater
An early morning start in the Serengeti to try and find cats before they retreat away from the blazing sun during the day. After a few hours game drive in the Serengeti drive to the Ngorongoro Crater.
Overnight camp at the rooftop of the crater, providing amazing views.

Tues. Sept. 28 - Ngorongoro Crater
This morning you will descend into the Ngorongoro Crater - a wonderful haven for wildlife. Ngorongoro is unique in that almost all the wildlife live within the crater walls hence you have the opportunity to find game easily. Rhino, in particular, can be seen regularly as well as prides of lion and other predators like cheetah. Enjoy lunch by the hippo pond before beginning your drive back to Arusha/Moshi. (Photo: William Warby)

(From another website: Called the eighth wonder of the world, Ngorongoro Crater is the world's largest unbroken and unflooded volcanic caldera in the Eastern (Great) Rift Valley, northern Tanzania, Africa. It lies 75 miles west of the town of Arusha. The crater measures between 10 and 12 miles across and has an area of 102 square miles. Its rim is heavily forested and rises 2,000 feet above the caldera’s floor to an elevation of 7,500 feet. It is included within a UNESCO World Heritage site designated in 1979.)

They will be dropping me off at Kilimanjaro airport for the overnight flight to Amsterdam via Dar es Salaam.

You know, a lot of people seem to want to witness a "kill" - I rather hope I do not. I will be quite content to just see a few lions, zebras and giraffes walking about and peacefully enjoy lunch by the hippo pond.

change in route

This morning, an email from Henry with a little surprise:

After 18 months, several other agencies, having noted the path our route takes - and the high success rate - and have started to adopt it as well. While we were the only ones using the route, it was not a problem. But now KINAPA (the Kiimanjaro National Park Authority) have decreed that too many people were cimbing via the Barafu Route to the summit, and have decided to stop anybody from using the Unique Rongai Route.

Uh oh.

Long and short is we will be taking a slightly different path at times, as a result. Henry asks if I mind. Of course, I don't. Further down in the email, I note the following sentence:

This 'new' path running up from XX is harder – and this is perhaps the biggest drawback with this new route.

Harder? Hmm. But again I don't know what was hard to can't compare. Just relieved we are all still able to take the Rongai Route and not have to switch to one of the more crowded ones.

Previously on day 5 – the day before the long nighttime trek up Kibo – you would arrive at camp at around 4pm because the total trek was 9km in length that day. This meant you had little time to relax, rest, and prepare yourself for the night-time climb to come. On this new route, however, the distance is only 4.9km on day 5, meaning that you should arrive at least an hour or two earlier – allowing you time to prepare yourself properly for the rigours ahead.

Yeah to that!

money issues

"ATMs in Arusha should not be relied on as a means of obtaining cash for payments on arrival as they do not issue US Dollars and are often underfunded, with daily withdrawal limits being as low as TZS 200,000 (around USD 150)."

"[Bring US] notes printed in the year 2000 or later. The reason for requiring new notes is that Arusha banks have relatively primitive authentication technology and will not accept older notes. Similarly, most bureaux des changes will not accept older notes and where they do accept them, they will usually only pay around 70% of their face value. The reason for requiring denominations of 100s and 50s is that where local currency is required to be obtained by our representatives, bureax des changes will generally only pay some 70-85% of the face value of smaller denomination notes. Denominations larger than 100s are generally not accepted by Arusha banks."
-- Team Kilimanjaro - Safaris

travel medical insurance

After receiving ridiculously high quotes from my bank, I decided to go with the Lonely Planet-recommended World Nomads. I did double check "high-altitude" trekking was covered before signing up. Cost $137 CAD including tax for 3 weeks.

water, water

One is told to carry and drink at least 3 liters of water a day on the trek. On the Inca Trail I only carried 2 bike bottles (750ml each). This is a whole new ball game. Water is heavy. Yesterday I was trying on yet another knapsack and the clerk put in 10lbs of weight; he said that was about 2 liters of water. Yikes. Also, on summit night, it will be about minus 10-15 so water freezes.

Choice: 3 thermal water bottles (2 in the outer pockets of my knapsack and one inside) or a platypus or camelbak (which is like a large water bag with a very long straw).

I decided to split the difference and carry both. A 2 liter camelbak which will hopefully distibute the weight better on my back and remind me to drink, 1 insulated water bottle and 1 extra bottle, just in case. One of the my fellow trekkers in Peru sprang a leak in her "water hydration system" and she had a hard time after that. I'm going to spend a bit more and buy the camelbak that they drove a truck over to test. When it comes to equipment, I don't believe in pinching here and there.

I'll have to keep the camelbak under my coat somehow for the summit attempt and make sure I remember to blow back into the tube after drinking as people have said that is often the part that freezes. I need to reread the notes as I can't recall if we carry our regular knapsacks up to the top or go with as little as possible.

I also have to buy chlorine tablets because although the cook boils our water and adds tablets, apparently sometimes they run out!

And eLoad tablets are also on my shopping list. Those are good when you're sweating alot, to replace the electrolytes in your body. Much easier on your stomach than Gatorade.

The other water item I need to look up is about hotel tap water. Is it safe to drink or do I need to buy water? I seem to remember buying huge bottles of water in Cusco so I expect it will be the same.

visas, wiring money

Today I nervously sent my new passport to Ottawa for a visa. I'm tracking it online. The visa cost $75, the money order $5.50, 2 xpresspost envelopes another $21. One supposedly can get an entry visa at Kilimanjaro Airport easily enough but after my complicated money-wiring experience on Friday, I think I'd rather have it now. I also know I'll be dead tired when I get there and one less line-up will be great.

Note: Canadian banks charge very high fees to wire US dollars overseas. First you pay a currency conversion fee and then the wire transfer fee. I was rather perturbed by the clerk taking about 1/2 hour to do it, staring blankly at the screen more than a few times. I asked "what happens if it goes to the wrong place?" "Oh it's a real mess", he answers, "All kinds of fees and complications." The teller finally fetched his supervisor for help. Now I had 2 serious faces staring at the screen. Eee. I should have stayed with paypal. HS had warned me about paypal's "take" but actually it would have been about the same and far less nerve-wracking for me.

When I got home, I checked my account right away - no WARNING YOUR MONEY HAS GONE TO HELL AND YOU WILL NEVER SEE IT AGAIN... messages - good. Then I emailed HS and asked him to let me know when he got it. Three days later, yes, everything was fine.

Update: Passport and visa arrived safely home within one week. The visa is a full page fancy-loooking affair printed inside my passport - a great souvenir.